Just purchased a 2007 is 250 on the way home from dealer the check systems light came on?? Didn't have it an hour... waiting for dealership to open. Want info. Should I just give it back? Hope there is a lemon law or soo many day return policy in CT. It has 47000 miles on it, appears to be in excellent condition.

I think we all just live in a world of automobiles,that have
too much high tech technology,when not so much is needed,
just to keep exhaust emissions at an acceptable level

At least you kept going back to the dealer & not keep driving
as most people do

You gave the dealer techs several chances at resolving the issues,
all be it, expensive, to say the least.

I don't see anything where you went wrong, or they let you down,
assuming your good to go & no more issues

I assume that the head gasket was something that only moved
& leaked internally under certain conditions & I don't know why or
when the ECU came up as a problem,they don't fail often

I would manually check tire pressure to see where you are really at on all 4 tires. Then reset the light again. There are some issues with the base module, not just the sensors. In addition, you could have a failing battery in one of the sensors, or a bad connection. You would need someone with the VIDA system to reset and get the system to "re-learn" what it is supposed to sense.

2006 Ford Fusion DTC B2290 Occupant Classification System (OCS) fault

My airbag light came on a few months ago. I checked all the connections under the seat and that did nothing. I got a BlueDriver scan tool and it showed me the B2290 code. This points to a sensor under the passenger seat which includes the rail system that the seat slides on. I did a ton of research and didn’t see a good solution. I went to two trusted mechanics and all they could give me was information I already had and suggested I go to a dealership. I went to a Ford dealership and gave them $100 to tell me what I already knew, and also got an estimate of $1,500 to fix the issue. They wanted to charge $1,000 for the OCS replacement kit and seat rails, because apparently everything should be replaced as a single unit according the manufacturer.

I said to myself, “That’s ridiculous.” I also did a lot of cursing. I ended up finding a good salvage yard called Pull-A-Part. I was lucky enough to find a 2007 Fusion with the seat in good condition. I went to www.vehiclehistory.com and saw that this car was not in an accident. That’s important because the OCS system might not be good if it was. It took me less than an hour to remove the seat and disconnect the seat pan from the back of the seat. The pan comes off as one piece with the rails and all the OCS wiring underneath. They charged me $8 for the part! Can’t beat that!

So I did the proper depower of the system by removing the fuses for the OCS and RCM. Then I disconnected the negative battery terminal and waited a few minutes. I took out the bad seat pan and track assembly and replaced it with the salvaged pan and tracks. The swap took about an hour. I reinstalled the seat, put the fuses back, did a proper repower of the system (sounds weird, but before you connect the negative battery cable you turn your ignition to the “On” position; not sure why), turned my ignition off, waited ten seconds, and finally turned it back on. Airbag light is off! DTC B2290 moved from “active” status to “stored” which means it’s no longer an issue. I feel so victorious. It’s always awesome to fix something yourself and also save this much money. I only wish I never gave my money to the dealer, but from everything I read they were the only people who could fix this issue. I’m here to tell you that you can do it yourself. I will point out that my new seat may need to be recalibrated using a Ford scan tool, but my light is off and that’s all I care about. I hope this helps someone with the same problem.

If the engine is still running you are probably ok. The sending unit is bad the same thing happened to me. I spent 3 hours pulling things apart. I could see the sending unit or as they call it the oil pressure sensor but it was in between three other things on the left front of the engine. Then you have to unhook the wires that have a special release on them so I didn't want to rip them off I got fed up and looked in the repair manual and it said about 1 hour for the dealer to replace. I called the dealer and he said 85 dollars a repair shop by the house said 70 dollars and I could wait for it. I got it in writing that it would be 70 dollars and I waited 8 hours while they put it in I told them it was hard but they wouldn't believe me. So have a repair shop do it and get it in writing

It may be possible the starter was replaced at some point and someone forgot to install the start shim or shims. Also, check the charging system because you may have a bad alternator.

CHECK FOR A LOOSE BATTERY GROUND OR IGNITION RELAY.

Well, it could mean that the emergency brake has not been fully released.The ABS system light is on if something has occurred within the ABS system. Something faulty may have happened there, get it checked out!

Check it out. Under the passenger floor panel you will find two relays above the computer box. Pull them. Check them. One of these is to the steering lock bypass which is a $19.70 part at Napa. I went through this for a week and a half and refused to get taken by the dealer for 1400.00 dollars and GM's bull s*-! Recall. Check it and you will be driving more than 1.5 MPH. Commando1241 @ the g spot

the problem is called rust and as exhausts rust from the inside you were just unlucky....sorry.the check light would have come on at the same time as it went.

Take your car's VIN and other information to the local Jeep dealer.

They can make you a new set of keys.

They will require proof of ownership.

Depending on the dealer they may require you to have the vehicle towed to the dealership.

Even if the dealer is open Saturday, it may take until monday, since the key making folks usually on work normal hours.

Good Luck!