1987 Subaru GL 1.8 liter automatic, 2WD. Fuel-injected. Quit running at 65MPH on freeway, coasted into parking lot. Parked. Cannot start. Noticed crank case was accidently overfilled on dip stick approx 1quart? Replaced fuel pump and oil pressure sending unit switch with new parts.. Now what? Still won't start. Tried to jump start. Didn't make a difference.

You need to hone the accelerator pump well and adjust the throw of the pump rod as much as possible to get more fuel. Of course that is just a guess based on 100's of rebuilds i have done over the years. I have also found that Japanese carbs seldom turn out when rebuilt.

How many miles on your subie? Is it fuel injected? I think Subes still had a few carbureted models even up to about 1988.
Check the timing, and if it's injected have the fuel pressure checked for proper pressure.
After it starts, does it run good? Might want to checlk your vacuum hoses for any leaks.
Good luck.

I would suspect that the Fuse has blown, or the wire has been cut? to that supply wire to the pump, try running a lead directly back to the Positive of the battery and see if that works OK? If so locate and replace the fuse, and or fix the broken wire.

If it is 4x4, around 30-33, a little more for 2wd. Also a manual trans. will get at least 3-4 mpg better. Keep it in tune and a clean fuel filter for best results.

Does engine still crank? If so you have to check for Fuel, spark, compression. when your engine quit ..odds are good you lost one of these. check for fuel since modern electric fuel pumps stop working without any warning.You should be able to hear the pump momentarily when you first turn the key to "ON" If good check for spark, modern "coil pack" spark systems have a few weak links. if engine cranks and you have spark and you don't know how to check for fuel spray some starting fluid in your air inlet and see if it will start momentarily

2000 TOYOTA TACOMA 2.7L 4-cyl Engine Code 3RZ-FE

Engine Oil Grade 1......API* All TEMPS......5W-30 Optional ..10W-30
Engine, 2WD, with filter..........5.5 liters
Engine, 4WD, with filter..........5.4 liters

Manual Transmission,......GL-5/ GL-4 All TEMPS......75W-90
Automatic Transmission,A340E......AF3 / A43D......AF3

Differential, Front/ Rear W/ ADRD......GL-5 ALL TEMPS......75W-90
Differential, Front Less ADRD......GL-5 ALL TEMPS......80W-90

Transfer Case,......GL-4/GL-5 ALL TEMPS......75W-90 Gear oil.

Capacity:
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........8.5 liters
Automatic Transmission, A340E Initial Fill..........1.6 liters
Automatic Transmission, A340F Initial Fill..........2 liters
Automatic Transmission, A43D Initial Fill..........2.4 liters
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
4 speed A340E..........7.2 liters
4 speed A340F..........10.1 liters
4 speed A43D..........6.5 liters
Manual Transmission, ..........2.5 liters
Differential, With ADRD Front..........1.2 liters
Differential, Without ADRD Front..........1.1 liters
Differential, 2WD V6 Rear..........2.6 liters
Differential, 4WD Extra Long Rear..........2.5 liters
Differential, Short WB With LSD Rear..........2.7 liters
Differential, Short WB Without LS Rear..........2.6 liters
Transfer Case, Electronic..........1.2 liters
Transfer Case, STD..........1 liters

You say the pump is running and you have spark - but are those working when the engine stops?

Discovering those things is probably the first step towards diagnosing the trouble.

How about the possibility of a foreign object in the fuel tank periodically cutting off the supply? It isn't an unusual thing...

Monitoring the fuel pressure while you drive is one way of discovering the truth.

put fresh fuel in the tank and and give it a quick snort of starting fluid

sounds like your timing belts have derailed. does it shutter and emitt white smoke?

Does it have oil in it now? If you ran it out of oil you fuel-washed the cylinder walls and may have lost compression. You'd have to check for spark and fuel and maybe add a little oil into the spark plug holes to regain compreession if the rings are worn.