How do i remove the altenator from a 1992 saab 900?...i can't get the bottom bolt out!...thanks...sean

as this engine is the same as the VOLVO unit,you could get a haynes manual for either.

The procedure for removal and installation of a starter depends on whether your Saab is a manual or automatic. If you need a more detailed explanation let me know and I will either post it or can email it to you. It seems the Saab engineers couldn't of made it harder for a DIYer. Good luck!
Remove the Black clutch cover on the manual & half cover on the auto
Remove the Red battery cable on the Battery
Remove the Red battery cable on the Starter
Remove the yellow wire from the starter solenoid
Loosen the brace to the bottom of the intake manifold
Remove the bolts or nuts from the starter through the front timing cover

The fuel pump is in the top of the gas tank, accessible from the trunk, under the carpeted floor. here is a link to a good FAQ answer about fuel pumps, follow the pricing link for info on replacing just the insert, which is cheaper than replacing the entire pump. Carry out the checks described to ensure that it is actually the pump causing your problem!

Here is a link to one of the best Saab info sites - it might be more reading, but has the best information!

As part of the safety/theft detterent system, most SAABs will only allow key removal when YOU PUT THE (manual) TRANSMISSION IN REVERSE. Not sure how it would work with an automatic transmission. If yours is a manual transmission, give that a try. I had a 1992 SAAB 900S convertible. Ran like a raped ape but the A/C gave out on us. Miss the old girl though.

Hope this helps!

If you're not using the "Bentley Bible" aka the Saab 900 Official Service Manual, which costs about $40 from Amazon, you might have difficulty.

16 valve manual: http://www.amazon.com/Saab-900-Valve-Service-Manual/dp/0837603137

8 valve manual :http://www.amazon.com/Eight-Official-Service-Manual-1981-1988/dp/0837603102
get the appropriate manual for your car and enjoy the Saab!

I assume you have an automatic transmision (the manual is basically "fill and forget unless it leaks" as it wasn't designed with a drain point, but check the level periodically, anyway) Like pretty much all auto trans, the filter is located inside the bottom pan, and for Saab is a metal encased rectangular unit, with rounded end. It is cleanable and re-used. Drain the pan; clean the pan exterior and drop it; remove filter mounting bolts and filter and clean with suitable solvent or clean ATF; clean pan and magnet in pan and reinstall magnet in the SAME position; re-install filter with NEW O ring; dry pan and re-install with NEW gasket (no sealant); install drain plug; re-install cross members/support plates what have you torques: pan mounting bolts 71-106 in-lb drain plug 44-71 in-lb REFILL the transmission, and with handbrake on and engine running, shift through all gears. Then re-check fluid levels and check for leaks. If this helps you, please give a "thumbs up" thanks Saabreur

have u had the battery tested? sometimes they develope bad cells

being new to the world of saabs, but not new to the world of auto repair, I just took a little closer look at the system, and it appeared to me that the (cables) were actually hoses, so not wanting to uncork the system, I unbolted the sunroof assembly and suspended it down about7 inches using tig rod hooked to the mounting bolts, and laced throught the mounting holes of the assembly. This allowed enough room to remove the traveling portion of the sunroof without kinking the hoses. Found that 2 white plastic slides were worn out/ probably from lack of maintenance of previous owner.

The thermostat housing is on the left side of the engine at the front, bolted to the side of the block with two bolts - top and bottom of the housing. Obviously, before starting, let engine cool and release pressure from system, drain out coolant (about half) so little is lost when stat housing removed. If coolant is old, this is a good time to replace it. When replacing the stat, get a SAAB stat, as it's a three stage stat, not a two stage (open and closed) as are most after market stats. If you car runs hot in traffic or hot days, consider the low temp stat (and rad fan thermo switch also) to extend engine life. Tighten the bolts to 13 ft-lb. Refill and bleed out any air. Hope this helps, give a "thumbs up" if it does; thanks Saabreur