I cut the wires leading to the antenna and i lost my power locks power windows alarm and radio pre sets wha do i need 2 do

does the power antenna sense the power lead of the radio . Did you somehow disconnect a sensor wire from the radio power wire when installing the new radio.
This might be the cause of the power antenna not going up when radio switched on ?

Check the wire bundle coming in to the door at hinge side. It is a short or broken wire

I would check the connections on the grid, if they are ok you have to live with yagi effect.

lost my post. 1 more time. im logged in to alldata.com so can you....!!
there were 6 systems. (orig)
how many speakers.? 4 or 6, with CD and with out, and with external amp and with out,, all have different colors, for antenna motor.
on one setup is wire color P-L (purple,+ ?) (no amp)
pin 9 on radio, marked amp in schematic. and is 8 speakers.

the amp external , used the red wire pin1, not 13 red beep
the red power this amp and antenna motor,

log in and look?

I think you answered your own question; I highly suspect the amp.

I am an experienced audio repair tech. Your description infers you have a separate amp; it should have a heavy power, a heavy ground, and a light remote (to the amp on and off). If the power and remote are tied to battery+, then the amp will run all the time. The proper way to install and amp is with the wire to a switched source; key ignition run or assy position; or to the power antenna wire (usually blue, maybe orange or yellow?*) of the radio (best solution, runs only when the radio runs).

*I did repairs, not installs, and did not pay much attention to wire colors.

Usually red, black and yellow are power and memory power into the radio. the other color (blue?) is probably the power antenna (or 'antenna relay' lead) lead that raises a power antenna when the radio is running if connected to a motorized antenna. Other wires are in pairs by matching color and color strips schemes are the speaker leads. Often there is a wiring diagram sticker somewhere on the radio chassis. Sometimes they are embossed on the back or top as recessed characters.

I also suspect your amp has a blown channel and is drawing idle current through the speakers (bad for speakers) or the amp chassis. I don't think an amp running would drain a battery unless left sitting without driving for several days. On the other hand, a damaged amp could draw excessive current though the damaged channel(s) and drawn down the battery in short order (and possibly be cooking your speaker coil wires).

IIR amps draw about 1/2 amp or less at idle (unless VERY big) and say a battery is 66AH. A half amp would take 122hrs (more than 4 days) to fully drain the battery. I think batteries are typically ~60-100 AmpHour capacity.

I can't comment on the car alarm, don't know what their power consumption conditions are.
Start with the amp, disconnect it's power and remote wire and see if your drain problem goes away.
The 'thump' is suspicious (is it equal?, or just in certain channels [speakers])?. If it's just thumping in one channel or side, and not present approximately the same in all channels; that channel is probably bad.
You can post back for voltage test procedure to check amp if you need it.

I think you hood switch is not activating when the hood is down, check your hood height adjusters (rubber bumper knobs) on each fender or each side of radiator (ie, is your hood straight?). These screw up and down to adjust hood closure after releasing (turning) the locking springy plate thingy at the bottom, hood alarm switch also likely has a threaded height adjustment, and the hood and switch has to be right, if the switch is not bad internally (or corrode/road salt). If heights are ok, try cleaning the switch with spray switch cleaner (Menards?) (or WD-40 as last resort). If you use WD-40, you must use a spray lube or oil afterward or it will corrode again (I use silicone oil spray for lube). WD-40 is a solvent, NOT a lubricant (google it) and will wash away any oils lubricating and protecting it now.

Post back what you find.

Usually the blue wire from the stereo is for the remote amp and/or power antenna. If you haven't cut off the stock radio plug, I would check into getting a stereo harness adapter for the stereo. Most auto stereo shops can get them.

hi, this is courtesy of ask me help desk...

FUSE PANEL INTERIOR

1 - 20 Amp (Yellow)Power Antenna Relay, Trailer Tow Relay.

2 - 15 Amp (Blue) Brake Lamps.

3 - 20 Amp (Yellow) Hazard Lamps.

4 - 15 Amp (Blue) Security Lamp.

5 - 15 Amp (Blue) Interior Lighting.

6 - 15 Amp (Blue) Security Alarm Module.

7 - 15 Amp (Blue) Security Alarm Relay, Security Alarm Module, Flash-To-Pass.

8 - 15 Amp (Blue) Overhead Console, Keyless Entry, Radio Memory, Clock/Chime Module, Power Locks, Power Mirrors, HVAC & VIC.

9 - 20 Amp (Yellow) Rear Wiper.

10 - 15 Amp (Blue) Radio Accessory.

11 - 15 Amp (Blue) Cigar Lighter.

12 - 15 Amp (Blue) Parking Lamps, Automatic Headlamps.

13 - 20 Amp (Yellow) Horn Relay.

14 - 20 Amp (Yellow) Power Lock Relays.

15 - 3 Amp (Violet) ABS Module & Relay.

16 - 20 Amp (Yellow) Turn Signals.

17 - 7.5 Amp (Brown) Heater & Air Conditioning Module.

18 - 15 Amp (Blue) Air Bag Module.

19 - 15 Amp (Blue) Interior Mirror, Auto Headlamps, Overhead Console, VIC/GDM Module, Heated Rear Window Relay Coil, Illuminated Entry Relay & Chime Module.

20 - 10 Amp (Red) Heated Rear Window Switch, Overdrive Switch, Speed Control.

21 - 15 Amp (Blue) Cluster, Security Alarm Module, Lamp Outage Module.

22 - 15 Amp (Blue) Air Bag Module, Speedometer, Tachometer, Telltales, Gauges.

23 - 15 Amp (Blue) Heated Mirror Feed, Heated Rear Window Switch.

24 - 7.5 Amp (Brown) Instrument Panel Illumination.

25 - 30 Amp Circuit Breaker Power Seats.

26 - 30 Amp Circuit Breaker Power Windows.

27 - 10 Amp Circuit Breaker Security Alarm Module, Front Wiper.

28 - 30 Amp Circuit Breaker Heated Rear Window Relay

CHANGE THE ELECTRIC COIL AND OR JUST CUT THE WIRE THAT GOES TO THE ALARM AND OR PULL THE FUSE TO THE ALARM

you need to have a new key fob programed to de immobillize the vehicle there is not really a way round this with out big wiring changes

You will have to disconnect the window antenna lead from the back of the radio and plug in a fender mounted antenna lead cable into the radio.