Found anti freeze leak in hose so had all hoses replaced, flushed radiator etc. all way fine for 2 months. now i am loosing anti freeze again. do not see it in oil and no white smoke from tail pipe. checked hose and they look fine.

Sounds and looks like the radiator is corroded internally. My guess is that it has been leaking for a while and re-filled with water only and no anti-freeze to help keep it clean. Pull the bottom hose off the radiator and try to flush it out with a hose and see what you get.

Remove the radiator from the vehicle and run water from a hose through it. You can also partially fill it, block of the two hose spouts and replace the cap, then shake it for a while, swishing water throughout the core and then let the water drain. Repeat until the water becomes clearer. With the radiator out of the car, you can also run the hose into the top coolant hose inlet and flush the engine core. This is done with the thermostat removed. After completion rebuild the system, replace the thermostat and cap as a matter of precaution, as well as any relevant hoses and refill with de-mineralized water and anti-freeze.

Drain the old antifreeze. Add straight water and a chemical flushing agent from a parts store, and follow the instructions for using the flush. Then drain again, and replace the radiator and use a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water (distilled water, preferably-it is cheap) to fill up the cooling system. Leave the radiator cap loose, and start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature-the upper hose will be hot after the thermostat is opened, and the coolant level will drop some and need topping up.

It's a good idea to also change the thermostat while you are changing the radiator. If you are not replacing the radiator itself, but a lot of brown rust drains out, then take the radiator off and turn it upside down and flush out good with a water hose.

The whistling noise is steam. The problem is you never attacked the source of the problem. What you need to do now is drain your radiator completely at opening T-spicket at the bottom of the radiator. While you drain with engine off, run your water hose on top, to flush out the radiator. Then run to the Auto store and buy "radiator flush" -- follow directions. After flushing out the radiator flush, close the T-spicket, and fill with NEW anti-freeze. By enough to fill to the very top. Mix the anti-freeze with water per instructions to your environmental weather.
Buy a new radiator cap which could have caused the problem in the first place by not allowing the correct pressure to blow off. Being a 2000 car is a little early for radiator problems, but an incorrect anti-freeze solution causes radiators to fail prematurely.. Better to have more than less because anti-freeze keeps the radiator from corroding.
Your radiator never cooled the water sufficiently, and boiled much of the water out, hence it got so hot that it would melt the water tank. The Thermostat could well have been the cause because it got corroded from the inept ant-freeze mixture. Did you find rust on the Thermostat ? If so it was the case. If not the radiator has lost cooling either by low water or the cores have become plugged up, in that case you will need a new radiator. See if the flush loosens the rust within the cores before buying an expensive radiator. Check the water hoses if leaking cooling. Run the car allow the engine to become hot before accepting that your water hoses are fine. Because heat expand everything, and may not leak until after the expansion.

if it is a hose that comes from the drain point of the radiator, then most likley the drain is not tightened properly, or has dirt in it.

WATER PUMP FAILURE COULD BE CAUSED BY WRONG COOLANT USE DEX COOL ANTI FREEZE.REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND BOTH RADIATOR HOSES TOP HOSE AND BOTTOM HOSE.SOFT HOSES COLAPSE LIKE PUMP HOSE.IT WILL COLAPSE FROM PUMP VACUUM CLOSING OFF SOME COOLANT FLOW.MAKE THE HEATER CORE NOT STOPPED UP IF SO IT WILL RESTRICT WATER PUMP BYPASS CAUSE EARLY PUMP FAILURE.YOU NEED 50/50 COOLANT MIXTURE YOU HALF WATER AND HALF DEX COOL DONT USE GREEN ANTI FREEZE USE ORANGE DEX COOL.I HAVE 3.4L ENGINE AND 3.1L ENGINE BEEN USING DEX COOL ANTI FREEZE SINCE I HAD BOTH VECHICLES. HAD NO WATER PUMP PROBLEMS.

Could be almost anywhere. Bad water pump, loose/cracked hoses, damaged radiator, defective radiator/pressure cap, etc. You will have to determine location of leak before you can estimate repair procedure/costs.

it should have a drain plug on the inner bottom that twist out. If not the bottom rad. hose will be fine to remove. I drain the water, and then run water through it with the hose still off. Replace the plug or hose and put in a cooling system cleaner (prestone) and fill with water. Start the car and let run for until it reaches a normal running temp, keep running for 5 min. urn engine off, let it cool and drain water. I then flush it again with water to remove any rust or gunk left in. I do this until I see good clear water running out. Reinstall your plug or hose and fill with (anti-freeze) be sure to get the right anti-freeze, some take a different color. If you use 50/50, it will take 3-4 to fill or 1 straight anti-freeze with mixture of water until full. Good luck

This may have been a point where the system was flushed at one time, if it has a screw cap it could be loose..... you might consider a replacement coupling, just show it to the parts man and he has the experience to see what it needs.....

the best thing to get is the Haynes manual for your car at advanced auto or autozone or somewhere like that and the book will tell you how to take everything apart and put it back. i think the manual is about $16.00