Does it matter what wheel you bleed first on a kia sedona 2002. I have told by a friend to bleed the passenger rear 1st the driver rear then passenger front then driver front is that right.

They are basic shocks with a top and lower mount. Simplest way is get a neighbour with good DIY skills, a can of wd40, some basic tools, sockets etc. Shouldn't take an hour all told. The reason you need help is there may be a step one pair of hands cant do. Don't work under the car without jack stands if you have to remove the wheels. Make sure its well chocked. Soak the nuts top and bottom well before starting. If you have to go to a garage then it should take less than an hours labour.

are you referring to the drain plug? if so, it is located on the passenger side bottom facing the front bumper. see attached diagram under radiator removal. http://www.kia-forums.com/attachments/kia-carnival-sedona/9678d1319024147-removing-radiator-kia-sedona-2005-remove-radiator.jpg

Our 2002 kia sedona mini van does the same thing when were drive and they told us it is the transmission control module tcm for short

Check for leaks, probably need to replace that p/s pump.
you typically here "noise" when the fluid is low.

Are you losing any fluid at the reservoir? Either way Its probably the hydraulics. normally if the mechanical units(pressure and clutch plate) were to fail, there would be immediate loss of clutch on all gears.I'm a little surprised that 1st gear didn't start grinding before the others though since pumping the clutch would build up abit of pressure in the system. Start by examining the bores of the clutch master and slave cylinder for scouring. If they're ok then replace the rubber seals(a.k.a kits in some parts) and bleed the system. Its certainly a cheaper, time saving first option before then attempting the mechanicals.

Start from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder. Passenger rear, then the driver rear, passenger front, and then the driver front. Complete all repairs, fill the master cylinder, and find a friend to pump the brake for you. Have them pump the brakes 8 to 10 times and hold the brake on, while they hold the brake on open the bleeder, fluid and air will come out and the pedal will go to the floor. Have them push it to the floor and hold it there, then have them say floor. When they say floor close the bleeder before they release the pedal. repeat this process at each wheel until you get fluid without air in it at each wheel. Make sure you check the fluid level in the master cylinder often so as not to run it dry.

Same thing happened to me. It was the power steering "box" I was told by local mechanic. Cost about $1000 to fix.

if u've had the brake pads replaced bleed thembecouse it sounds like u have compressed air in ur brake lines

If you don't have someone to help you you'll need to get a one man brake bleeding kit. The bleeding kit will take the place of the helper. IF you have a helper start with the rear passenger side wheel (furthest from master cylinder). Remove the wheel, have a helper sit in the vehicle and pump the brakes several times (motor off). Tell them to hold the pedal down while you open the bleeder screw. Tighten the bleeder screw before the helper releases the brake pedal to avoid sucking air back into the line. Repeat this process until the fluid flows out of the bleeder with no air. Then repeat these steps on each wheel. The order of bleeding is always furthest from the master cylinder. Rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, and lastly front driver. After each wheel is done check the fluid level in the master cylinder and add as necessary. You don't want it to get low and **** air in from the cylinder.