Change rear break pads on 2000 Buick. Cannot compress break cylinder in order to install new pads using C clamp and bleeding off break fluid.

You open the rear caliper bleeder valve as it is
near impossible to push fluid to the front of car

Then you turn the caliper piston clockwise-to turn
in the parking brake adjuster- as you push the piston
into the caliper bore

Two functions-piston turned in & pushed in

You line up the piston notch to the top-so the
round bump on the inner pad goes down in place

After the caliper & pads are on & before you start the
car & bleed the 4 corners & then push brake for a firm
pedal-----You ratchet up the lever on park brake at back of caliper

They don't make a tool for an LS

I took the cube avail at any parts store & filed the outsides
of two pins to fit the piston notches

Use a C clamp to compress the pistons.

YOU NEED TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT REAR OF VECHICLE ON JACKSTANDS. MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. YOU NEED TO SIPHON JUST A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE MASTERCYLINDER.BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE LARGE C - CLAMP TO COMPRESS FORCE PISTONS BACK IN THE CALIPER BORES USING LARGE C - CLAMP DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOU ENOUGH ROOM INSTALL NEW REAR BRAKE PADS.TO REMOVE REAR PADS ONCE YOU COMPRESS PISTON BACK IN THE CYLINDER BORE. YOU CAN TO REMOVE REAR BRAKE PADS BY REMOVING RETAINING PINS IF EQUIPPED OR BRAKE PADS HELD IN PLACE BY RETAINING BOLTS.ONCE YOU HAVE NEW REAR BRAKE PADS INSTALLED.PLACE MASTERCYLINDER COVER BACK ON TOP OF MASTERCYLINDER THEN PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT NEW REAR BRAKE PADS AGAINST THE ROTOR UNTIL BRAKE PEDAL FEEL FIRM AND SOLID.THEN RECHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER ADD LITTLE MORE FLUID IF NEED DONT OVER FILL MASTERCYLINDER.

Hi there,

The pads are easy to change. You do not need any special tools. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4.

One last tip. When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

This is how to get it done:

• Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important). Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw.
• Install new pad and caliper
• Bleed again. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.

Glad to be of help!!!

If you open that bleed screw to compress the piston you'll have to bleed tha air out of the system, so don't open the screw. Use a 5" or 6" C clamp to compress you pistons IF they are not the screw in type - you can call your local auto parts store to determine that. If they are the screw ins, the parts store may have a piston compression kit to rent you for the job, as the piston would need to be rotated slightly as it is compressed. Do not try to just compress the screw ins - you'll break the caliper and have to buy a new one.
Good luck!!

Brake pad replacement does not involve brake fluid loss or air entrainment in the brake lines. It is a good idea to loosen the lid on the master cylinder reservoir while you compress each piston. It may make it a bit easier to do. If you do put a rag around the reservoir in the rare event there is slight spillage. Use a small block of wood or an old brake pad as a protective caul to cover the piston end in the caliper, Use a C-clamp or similar tool to gently compress the piston back into the caliper head. When initially positioning the C-clamp, pay close attention to where it will grip on the back of the caliper so you do not inadvertently damage other parts. Once you are all done with the pads check the reservoir and top off with a little fresh brake fluid if necessary. Be sure to securely fasten the lid to the brake fluid reservoir.

Open the bleed nipple while the caliper is tight in the clamp - open it till it weeps and tighten the clamp till the pistons are flat with the caliper then tighten the bleed nipple. you should be able to fit the brakes now easily. Remember to check and if necessary replenish the brake fluid reservoir.

Use proper sized socket to take out 2 bolts holding caliper on. Lift caliper up to remove. Open brake reservoir top and use old pad and large c-clamp to compress cylinder back in fully. Put squeek-stop on back of new pads and install the way you took them off. Remember where the wear bar on the pad was.Little metal tab on pad. Bolt it back on and you should be good to go. Shouldn't have to bleed system.

It sounds like the rear calipers are bad. Raise the rear wheels and see if you can turn the tires. If you can't, open the bleeder. If you still can't replace the caliper. If you can turn the wheel after you open the bleeder, replace the brake hose to that wheel.

rate as fixya if this is what you need. Thanks

1. Remove the rear disc brake caliper (2K327).
2. Remove the brake caliper bolts.
3. Lift the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B582).

1. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pads.
   Remove the brake pads by pushing inward and rotating the pad up.

1. NOTE: Use a block of wood or used pad to protect the piston and boots.
   Retract the caliper piston (2196) into the rear disc brake caliper.