It seems to have 2 diffferent problems. it revs up usually staying around 2.5 to 3 rmps, and if you shut it off it floods, if your remove the AIC it will stop reving but still floods. have to pull the fuel pump fuse to get it started.It seems to have 2 diffferent problems. it revs up usually staying around 2.5 to 3 rmps, and if you shut it off it floods, if your remove the AIC it will stop reving but still floods. have to pull the fuel pump fuse to get it started.
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the G16 engine, floods. there are 2 engines, G16a and b. 8valve TBI and the 16v MPI engine. (EFI on both are radically different.) this pages shows all 3 levels of diagnosis 3 causes. physics. 14 causes. and then the full list.
http://www.fixkick.com/flooding.html
to find the cause takes tools. got tools?, what to buy them.? or just guess.?
here ill guess (useless) 1: the FPR reg is stuck closed, and fuel pressures 2x normal an it floods.
got 50 more...
post a photo of your engine and WIN> get the first of millions, to do it. amazing at it seems...
learn that almost all cars have engine options and transmissions.
Suspect (potentially) either a stuck injector, or a failed/failing fuel pressure regulator. One sign of a failed fuel pressure regulator can be gas in the oil. (I suffered that side effect, along with bogging, and black smoke rich running, worsening as warmed up, turned out to be fuel pressure regulator). If the injector is loose in the throttle body, or has bad o-rings, can also cause some wonky behavior. Good luck.
Are you sure it's flooding or starving itself of gas? Rent a fuel pressure gauge from auto zone and check your fuel pressure is exactly what it is supposed to be. Fuel pump can warm itself up and and kinda fizzle out so check when warm and cold.
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line and check the fuel pressure. If it exceeds manufacturers specifications; replace the fuel pressure regulator. Spark plug cables which have aged, and now have more han 1,000 ohms resistance per inch of length, also can lead to cylinder flooding; and should be replaced.
double posted, and fluids? you mean FLOODS. see previous post, there are other ways to flood any motor. one other is (iSC /IAC devices are stuck closed) gummed up. this cause no starting air, no air means flooding. I cant see your car, and see if starting with 10% throttle solves the flood, but you can. also WOT cranking, cuts all fueling and can not flood and will start any flooded engine. but if this still floods,now, that is bad injectors. leaking. WOT cuts injection pulses dead, and no fuel flows, cranking. knowing these facts on EFI makes finding causes easy.
I'm syill working on the problem but I swapped the throttle bore assemby , put new cap & rotor amd double checked the timeing (Both belt & distributer with timing light) and engine still floods,. Wm going th check for kinked return hose next.
You have a bad fule pressure regulator to check to see if this is the problem look on your fule rail and you will see a round piece that has a vaccume line on it start car and un plug the line if gas is comming out of the regulator its bad. it floods the motor with gas it drives ok because you are hitting the gas and it allows more air in to compensate for the xtra fule, but once you let off gas its flooding out. Thats why you smell it and all the black smoke. hope this helps.
sounds bad, I would drain the oil and leave it over night to drip out so it is completely dry, leave all oil caps an anything that will allow air in off the truck.
Do you have a compressor or air line you could use to blast air through the engine. if this is diesel fuel then it will take much longer to evaporate if this is gas/petrol then over night should do it.
It seems to have 2 diffferent problems. it revs up usually staying around 2.5 to 3 rmps, and if you shut it off it floods, if your remove the AIC it will stop reving but still floods. have to pull the fuel pump fuse to get it started.
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