Question about 2007 Subaru B9 Tribeca
SOURCE: 2001 Subaru Outback LTD; 2.5
Both seat heaters in this car are on the same fuse and relay. If one is working and the other is not, you can assume that the fuse and relay are okay. It could either be a broken circuit in the seat heater itself or a bad switch. Most likely it is a break in the heater element. I had this problem in my 2004 forester on the driver side. after removing the upholstry cover on the seat and some careful inspection I found two broken solder joints at each thermostat in the seat heater element. A quick solder job fixed the problem. The only real difficulty on the job was that the thermostats and associated connections are sandwiched between two layers of fabric and filled with hot glue. Careful probing with the end of a soldering iron can melt the hot glue away from the areas you need access to. A quick internet search will find you some pretty good directions on how to remove the seat covers. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: 2003 Subaru Outback Aircon and
This cigarette lighter socket.... of course! I jumped into my Outback today to go get new tyres fitted. It was a cold wintery day here in Melbourne so I went to put the heater on. No Luck. Display for the Climate Control was dead. No lights, no functions at all... Damn. I have been away for 9 weeks, I came home to a flat Battery and low tyre. Jump started car left it running while I used crappy 12v compressor which lasted 30 seconds... BLOWING CIGARETTE LIGHTER FUSE. Didn't replace it, went on to use proper 240V Compressor, all good. A day later after using Battery charger on car after it wouldn't start, realise battery is dead dead. Trade in battery for new one. Fit to car, all good. Today, as I mentioned, I realise no heater controls. Search through forums on net to find this.... The BLOWN CIGARETTE LIGHTER FUSE!!!!!! Thanks MIGNUN1
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Since you changed your waterpump, you need to do an air bleed...
This is INSANELY important!
The airbleed is mounted on the top of the radiator on the passenger side.
Its made of plastic, has a seal, and looks like a 1/2 inch (12mm) philips screw head.
To do this, make sure the engine is cold and not running.
Use a large FLAT HEAD screw driver and turn it counter clockwise.
It might be very tight, so be prepared for a bit of torque to turn it!
Unscrew it, and look in the hole.
Coolant should be at the top of the bottom of the screw hole.
It should be low, so add coolant to the open hole.
While doing this, be sure the radiator cap is off so you can balance the fluid level properly.
Why do you need to bleed the system?
The engine has a slight tilt upwards toward the radiator, and both your waterpump, and block will have a tendancy to leave air near the top of the block and heads.
This is a common mistake on several makes after a coolant change.
Make sure all fluids are topped off, fill the overflow tank to its max level indicated on the tank itself and your done.
Provided you havent been driving long on the car in this condition, it shouldnt blow a headgasket.
A good way to know if the headgasket is bad is the radiator cap will have a brownish "slime" indicating combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system.
IF this is the case, your engine is pumping combustion gasses into your system and no amount of air bleeding with help.
Another tell tale sign of coolant being pressurized, is a overflowing "overflow" tank, and a sudden blast from Normal operating temprature to HOT, and then suddenly.. it goes back to Normal again.
There is usually a "gurgling" sound under your dash..
Lets assume you just need to do an air bleed, and things will go back to normal.
Also, if your airbleed screw has alittle coolant leaking around it, replace it with a new one as the seal and plastic have worn due to age.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
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