SOURCE: 1994 caprice classic 4.3l
the fuel filter is under the driver side door on the frame rail. you can pull it off by puching the plastic clips into the fuel line and pull off the line. do the same on the other side of the filter. then you can pull out the filter. if it cant come out easy you can use a socket + ratchet to loosen up the bolt.
SOURCE: Where is the IAT Sensor
It is on the air duct that goes into the engine. You will see a two wire connector w/ a sensor about 7 inches from the throttle body on the air duct. This is it.
SOURCE: i have caprice classic LTZ 1994 today morning
ok the solution is today i went to the mecanic and i fix the problem
the complete fuel pump was out of order and the whole wires in the tank burned thanks to my allah
my car is safe of fire guys take care of your cars and it is good website to pas information to all
SOURCE: I HAVE A 1994 CAPRICE CLASSIC LS AND MY
I had this problem with my '96. There is only one way to fix it, remove the speedometer from the car and have it repaired. It has an internal circuit problem. There is a guy on ebay who sells the service. 20,000 miles on mine since he fixed it and no problems.
SOURCE: cannot read trouble codes on 1994 chevy caprice
I am having the same problem. I was able to get the twelve code to come up after actually turning on the ignition and attaching the code scanner. It flashes 1 repeatedly after that, so I'm really not making any progress either.
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Local shop quotes $1000 to replace entire compressor, recharge, etc. Auto parts store has clutch assembly for $100, but my best effort (and GM's repair manual procedure) can't get the clutch off of the compressor while in the car.
Any other suggestions? I really can't afford a $1000 repair job on this car, but can't see running it with the parts about to fly off!
Found a special tool at J. C. Whitney that should allow me to remove the broken clutch, $12.99. I'll try to remove it today and get the replacement part. Hope this works...
...it didn't. First tool was the wrong thread. Bought second tool, which didn't really want to thread into the clutch. I made it work, but then the center bolt which is supposed to force the clutch off of the shaft only tore up the end of the shaft. So, this compressor is truly toast now. Options are now limited to $1000 repair, or replace compressor myself ($200 part), or replace compressor with a "dummy" pulley ($50). Last 2 options require I get my hands on the rig to capture the R-134. Ugh.
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