NOT GETTING ANY HEAT AT ALL, REPLACED WATER PUMP, THERMOSTAT, VALVE TAP ON HEATER HOSE CHECKED VACUM ALL WORKS CAR RUNS WELL NO OVERHEAT PROBS, AND HEATER CORE FLOWING WELL. JUST NO HEAT FROM HEATER AT ALL

I have ran into this problem before the heater system flows around the thermostat keeping it closed . Check heater valve in closed position that the outward hose is cold. Honda engineers think that you do not need the thermostat to open during winter operation. This allows the car to get interior heat faster.

is there an air bleed on top of the thermostat housing? If not, when it's cool, remove the radiator cap and start engine.
Let it run until water rises up to top edge of radiator cap lip.
A little air in the cooling system can cause this problem.

once the water rises to the top, put the cap on and shut engine off.

If you see a bleed screw on top of the waterneck/thermostat housing, just loosen it a little at a time while the engine is running and warm.

If you see air bubbles, let it keep going until its a smooth flow of water.

DO NOT REMOVE ALL THE WAY.

this is all assuming that your fan and water pump are working fine.

Keep spilled coolant away from pets. poison.

Get jeep up to operating temp
Turn on heater to max heat
Hood feel 2 heater core hoses goint into upper passenger side of engine compartment firewall.
They should feel too hot to hold
If it's not hot, could be 6 things
1. heater control valve is bad
2. Vacuum to heater control valve is bad
3. clogged heater core.
4. Bad thermostat
5. Bad waterpump
6. Needs more coolant (check when system is cold)

Do these things:

1. Disconnect vacuum line from control valve and feel under valve to manually move valve to open position. This should let hot water flow through core. If you now have heat inside, replace the heater control valve. Or you can disconnect the plunger on the heater control that is hooked on to the silver bar on the bottom of it. With it disconnected you can manually move it to the open position. It will always remain on.

2. When system is cold, disconnect both heater hoses going to heater core. hook up a water hose to one side of heater core and flush out any gunk. When you get done, the water should run clear. If you see lots of gunk come out, that was probably the problem. Replacement is like $20-30

3. When system is hot and engine running, squeeze the upper radiator hose (using gloves) when you release it you should feel a surge of water. Proves your water pump is working. If no surge, check thermostat. If thermostat checks good, look at the weep holes at the bottom of the water pump for traces of antifreeze. If you see a trace or stream of coolant, indicates bad pump.

4. As far as testing the thermostat, watch as your engine heats up on the gauge. when it gets to a certain point you will see the temperature rise, then lower, then rise again. This means your thermostat opened properly, cooling the system temporarily, then heated it back up. Replacement is around $5

Try these and see how it goes.

UNHOOK BOTH HEATER HOSES AND FLUSH OUT HEATER CORE
DO IT FOWARD AND BACK FLUSH / COVER DIST. CAP OR YOU WILL
FILL IT WITH WATER / IF IT CLEARS OUT HOOK HOSES BACK UP AND
BLEED AIR OUT OF SYSTEM / IF IT DOES'T CLEAR OUT HEATER CORE
WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED (DASH COMES OUT TO DO HEATER CORE)

Probably not water pump. Engine is notourious for vapour lock.
Cooling system must be blead of air before thermostat will work. Cool bottom rad hose is a dead give away. If you are still watching this forum reply , and I will walk you through the only way I know how to make it work properly. It's actually easy if you do it my way. I have worked on lots of cars , and this engine was the hardest to bleed out. Did one Yesterday , and works perfect.

Okay, The water pump is more than likely okay but at this point I would not rule it out completely. One simple check to see if the water pump is moving water and that the thermostat is opening and closing is to take off the radiator cap when the car is cold. Start the car and stand at a point where you can see down in the neck of the radiator without looking straight down into it. When the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level change dramatically when the thermostat opens, you should be able to see the coolant being pumped through the coolant tubes in the radiator. IF you see the coolant level change and then see the coolant being pushed through the coolant tubes, then the water pump and thermostat are probably okay. If they appear to be working okay then the next thing is to check the heater hoses to see if they get warm. Do not grab either one while the car is at normal temp as they can be very hot. Let the car cool down for about a half an hour then see if they are both warm. If they are, then I would move to the inside of the car and check the heater controls. There may be a malfunction in them. The reason for this logic is that if the water pump is not operating properly or the thermostat is not functioning properly, Chrysler will usually turn on the check engine light indicating a problem. They have sensors in the engine that tell if the coolant is to cold or to hot (these are not 100% accurate but in most cases are). The heater controls on the other hand are not tied into the check engine light so if there is a problem there, you will have to do some digging to find the problem. If the heater one of the heater hoses is cold and the other is warm after running the engine then the heater core is probably plugged up not allowing the hot water to move through the core to produce heat.

First make sure it is full of fluid......many times I have seen this to be the prob. If not,your heater valve may be stuck or broke. Hope this helps. Check to see all the vacum hoses are connected under hood at valves too.

Forget the Thermostat.
Start with no $.
Check Heater Core, leaks in rubber hoses ( they go to the firewall, should be hot when touch them (2) ) Coolant Level.

Water flows from pump to intake, check vacume hoses very good.

This problem is one i have encountered on a number of vehicle not just your brand. The problem seams to be in the controls switches and sending units. you have change lot of parts but did you check to see if you had flow through the heater core.Remove the heater hose's from the engine going to the fire wall. This is not precise in how you get the hoses off, however you do it? Once the hoes are off take a garden hose and try to run water throught the heater core. If you do not have a flow you need to find the closed valve. You may need to block off the hoses to the engine so you can run it for a vacume system. You may need to cut and put splices in the water hoses to do this. As a lot of engines you can not get to the end of the hoses.
This is not a simple fix as you would think. As i have found the heater hoses are getting warm or hot with the engine running but it is still cold inside the car. The word is no water flow no heat and if you have flow you have a vent door stuck closed. Air conditioner controls can have effect also. you may also may need to check the water pump out put to the heater core. This needs to be done with all the anitfreeze removed so as not to lose it on the ground. If you do remove the anitfreeze you can check the heater core flow by only removing 1 (one ) hose for the firewall to the heater. if you have hose off remember to put the garden hose in the radiator with it one as not to over heat the engine while it is running. you had heat before it a matter of tracking down where the flow has stop or the cause like a bad switch, broken wire or vacume hose.
good luck