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You're spot on. But check your batterie's water and top up, as alot of people don't bother and this is what causes the battery to break down in one cell.Probably one of the cells is almost dry with very little water in it.So, top up water in battery and put on charge overnight, you still be able to save it.
if vechicle idle fine but cut out off when you accelerate, could have restricted stopped up fuel filter or faulty tps sensor if so you will see check engine light flashing.
more then likely it is the IAC thats bad. clean or replace the IAC. more causes are--- erratic idle (including high idle speeds) can be caused by a faulty throttle position sensor (TPS) - a common problem. and check for a bad vacuum hose also. good-day ! clean IAC first ! to see if this helps then go from there.
it sounds like the lock uo solenoid to the torque convertor is hung on. Find some one who knows about transmissions to unhook the plug to the lock up solenoid and ur problem will be temporarily fixed or you can put a new lock up solenoid in it to fix it. But it will not hurt it un pluged it will even save on gas.
ok if you are runing on the fwy and let go the gas pedal the only air is coming in from the idle valve and on neutral the same ting what about wen you start the car first the rpm is high 1400 or 1500 then going down wen it get hot that car had two valves the cold idle valve and electric valve the electric valve control the regular idle wen the car is hot after the cold valve is closed
The symptom is not having correct Fuel air mixture. Make sure to do in order 1- Change the new air filter. 2- Have Fuel filter replaced. 3- Have Fuel pump delivered correct quantity per sec. 4- Have Fuel distributor calibrated Good luck.
I think you may have a faulty vehicle speed sensor (VSS). It is located in the transmission behind the engine. It does control the speedometer and the computer uses the speed signal to adjust fuel. You would really need someone to attach a scan too and look at the vss readings to see if they are erratic.
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