I had forgotten to disconnect the battery cable before taking out the old alternator. I accidentally arced across some metal, then removed cable. Now after the new one is in and I started the car, I have no warning lights on the dash, no tach,wipers, power windows, blower motors, and interior lights. I still have radio and headlights though. I've checked every fuse I could, including the main fuses, with a tester and none were bad. The car does stay running, but when I put my volt meter on the alternator it reads less than 1 volt. The altrnator I was replacing had just been installed 4 days ago, when my warning light on the dash came on again. When I tested the old one(4 days old) before removing, the voltage was fluctuating from less than 1 volt, up to about 11.5 volts, but never holding at the high end for more than a few seconds. When I told the guys at the parts store this, they just gave me a replacement. What could be wrong?
SOURCE: Going through alternators
Hi there, I am a girl (i.e. not car savvy), but I have a 1998 Altima as well, and the first time (4 months ago) I noticed the brake and battery lights on simultaneously, I took it to a Nissan service shop. Everything seemed fine until about a month ago when the symptoms returned. I ignored the problem for 3 days and the car just stopped running, period. Took it back to the shop, figured out it was a fauly alternator, got it sorted, no problem. Today (1 month after replacement), I see the same bloody problem, and I'm taking it back to the shop in the morning. I am wondering... is it the alternator, or something connected to the alternator that is malfunctioning? The 2 alternators put in were "rebuilt" since they didn't have genuine Nissan alternators available. I really hope the dealers aren't taking me for a merry ride.
SOURCE: 2010 chevy traverse air conditioner
The two problems are more than likely related. Solve the voltage problem and the blower problem will disappear. Check for a slipping belt or an intermittent internal problem with the alternator. There could also be a wiring issue.
If tightening the battery cables helped but did not fix, you may need to take the cables off and clean all the connections. If there is enough corrosion, it causes enough resistance to lower the voltage. Take the connections off and clean the cable and battery with a wire brush. Apply a coat of grease and put it back together. If this battery is a post type there are cleaning tools that have a post cleaner and a brush the will clean the inside of the cable clamp. You can find there at most any place that sells car batteries. They are cheap and well worth having. If it is a bolt on connection you should be able to clean with a regular wire brush. Clean until all the metal is shinny. There are also some spray cleaners available. When you disconnect the battery, always disconnect the positive post first. This ensures that you don't accidentally touch the cables and cause a short. Reverse the procedure when you reconnect the cables. If this doesn't help, have the battery checked. Good luck.
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Gaker
The alternator keeps the battery in your Pontiac going, constantly recharging it as you drive. The battery will quickly drain if the alternator is bad, so it must be replaced in that case. The alternator is mounted in the engine and naturally connected to the battery in all models, but other components could be in its way depending on the type of Pontiac you own. This will determine how difficult such a replacement will be.
Difficulty:Moderately Challenging
Instructions
Simply follow the steps
Disconnect the battery's negative cable and set it aside where it can't accidentally snap back onto the terminal.
Remove the car's accessory drive belt. Disconnect the belt shield by removing its two 10-mm bolts, push up on the tensioner by hand, pull the belt off the air conditioner or water pump pulley and remove the rest of the belt. Take note of how the belt loops around each pulley.
Open the cover containing the alternator's electrical connectors and disconnect them. Remove the bolt on the coolant expansion tank then detach the tank from its clip and secure it away. Detach the power steering reservoir, engine wiring loom bracket, ground cable and evaporative emission canister purge valve.
Unscrew and remove the alternator's first bolt on its right side. Unscrew the second bolt on the left and disengage it fully from the bracket; it cannot be removed from the alternator. Remove the alternator from the engine.
Install the new alternator, placing the built-in bolt within the bracket and tightening it first. Insert and tighten the second bolt.
Replace all other objects set aside in the reverse order they were detached. (evaporative emission canister purge valve, ground cable, engine wiring loom bracket, power steering reservoir and coolant expansion tank). Plug in the electrical connectors and replace the cover over them.
Replace the accessory drive belt. Loop it over all the pulleys except the one on the air conditioner. Retract the tensioner upwards as you did before to fit the belt on the A/C pulley.
Reconnect the battery cable.
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Did you take the fuses out of the fuse block to test them?
Yes I did.
Problem is solved. The only fuse that wasn't tested was the 100 amp battery fuse, because I couldn't just pull that one out without pulling apart the fusebox it was in and removing some screws. I also assumed that the car would not run if that one had blown. Wrong. Less than a $4.00 fix.
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