I am having a problem with the car over heating. Once I drive about twenty miles, the gauge's needle is moving past the norm into the red zone. I have plenty of coolant in the radiator. The car heats up much faster (or at leat the gauge shows) with the air conditioning on. The check gauges light will turn on but i do not get a low coolant light coming on. Also when I turn the AC off after about 5 seconds I hear a pop/poof like noise that seems to come from the far right vent.
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https://www.quora.com/How-long-and-far-can-you-drive-in-an-aver...
QuoraHow long and far can you drive in an average car once the fuel gauge reaches E? ... Edit: On a manual transmission, you can "mooch" a few more miles by very ... and or the gauge needle touches the "E" indicator line and your distance to travel ... If cars ran out at E, there would be many more cars on the side of the road.
Runing at the middle of the temp gauge is normal, If a vehicles temp gauge needle goes into the red zone on the gauge or into the hot zone as far as the needle will go .then you start worrying. Middle position is (NormaL for most (Vehicles) You have nothing to worry about.
Well sounds like first start your car record where the temp needle reads, then let the engine warm up (with out driving) then rev the engine to about 3500-4000rpm a couple times does your needle move at all record then hold your rpm at 3500 for about 5-10 sec does this get the gauge to drop? sounds like you may "if not over heating at all and coolant level and circulation is good" have a circuit problem, you can test this by going to auto zone and ask for a scan to be done on your car when the plug into your OBD 2 ask them to go into DATA STREAM and then check to see what temp your ECM thinks the engine coolant is at does it match your gauge at idle and at 3500rpm if not its a faulty circuit
There's a float inside the tank that the fuel gauge works off of. If you step on the brakes or accelerate hard it causes the gas inside the tank to slosh around and you can see the fuel gauge move when you do this. If you know the vehicle has gas in it, the best way to check if the gauge is bad is to drive around enough to where you should have burnt a noticeable amount of gas. If the gauge doesn't move, then there's something wrong with it.
Since the gauge moved when you braked hard, I would assume it's working properly because it picked up on the level change inside the tank where the float's at.
I believe you have electric cooling fans which are part of your cooling system . First , remove your radiator cap and allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature . The cooling gauge needle must be close to half way. You want to make sure the thermostat is open . Slowly raise the RPM to about 1500 while watching the coolant . You should see movement of the coolant indicating the thermostat is in fact opening . Once you verify that is OK , the Nextstep is to verify that your cooling fans turn on . Put the radiator cap back on and continue to hold the engine RPM at about 1500 . As the needle on the gauge moves to the center or a little bit higher , the cooling fans should start up . If the needle continues to climb towards the red zone but the fans don't come on , your problem will be in the cooling fan circuit . I suggest having a professional diagnosis be done .
you are spot on, it is the rev limiter cuting in,instead of trying to blow the turbo up why dont you fit a wastegate conversion from turbo technics.you have 182 bhp as it is.you need more?????
check your coolant level, its may be low causing the fluctuatiion also the loss of heat. if its ok replace your thermostat its not regulating tempature right
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