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Like answer #1, when I bought my 1993 Jeep Cherokee, one of the first things I ended up doing was go to & join the
cherokeeforum.com, i.e. cherokee-forum-dot-com....
I've found that whenever I need advise, or answers to any questions with my vehicles, I look for the forum for that vehicle. 99.9% of the time the folks in the forums give you honest answers..... I even subscribe to a few YouTube Channels, like the one for my 93 Cherokee. That guy is not only smart when it comes to 1990s-2000s Jeep Cherokee's/XJs, he's always doing some sort of repair or modification to one of his Cherokee's or Grand Cherokee's..... Hope this helps all you Jeep XJ Folks out there....
You may be able to find one online, or, go to a good Auto-parts store. When I replaced the belt on MY 1987 Jeep, NAPA auto parts supplied me with a diagram.
Here is a firing order diagram for that vehicle and engine, and let me know if you need any help to understand this diagram, or if you require any further assistance.
you will need to have the brakes checked, you may have a bad hose or sticking caliper, also if you have drum rear brakes then the rear drums may be out of round, this is if its the rear brakes that are grabbing, if it is then you may just need the drums resurfaced and also make sure theres no gear oil or brake fluid on the shoes. if the fronts are grabbing then you may have a bad brake hose or a bad caliper.
To do that, you need to remove the tire, brake drum and the brake shoes and hardware. After that's done, remove the steel line connecting the cylinder to the system then the two small bolts that hold it to the backing plate. Use a flair nut wrench on the line fitting or it is easy to round it off. If it does not come out, cut it off at the line and use a socket over the fitting, then remove the line as well and replace it along with the cylinder. After installing, open the small bleed screw and have someone gently push down on the brake pedal. close the screw, release the pedal. Repeat as many times as necessary till no air comes out. I suggest you do the same on the other rear wheel as well. While bleeding, make sure that the master cylinder does not run dry or you will need to start all over. If you never have done that work before, it is good to have a chilton, haynes or other basic manual on hand to guide you but you can also look at the brakes on the other wheel if you forget where or how it goes back together. Good luck
That depends on what was ordered when it was bought. if you have a question about which brakes are on it measure the drum diameter and the shoe width and match that to available parts listed. Or bring one set to the parts house when buying the new ones and physically match them.
if drums are frozen to axles, spray around center with wd40. also, if you can, back off adjusters through backing plate access hole. You can also use a hammer, but dont go crazy on them!
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