I have a 2001 Elantra GLS that keeps misfiring. I had it to the service and they did a tune up with plug assy, cable set and coil assy. It ran good for a few weeks, but now it's the same problem. Low idle is rough and misfires, check engine light is on again. What else could cause this? It runs smooth when foot is on gas and I am moving, it is when I stop that it rough idles. It seems to be worse when the engine is warm, and in warmer weather.
Check engine light, by the owner's book, says a sensor is not being satisfied. Note that I had the flexpipe replaced as the old one was cracked. The engine seems to be worse when it is warm, especially on warm days. Sometimes it runs a bit smoother, then it gets rough.Check engine light, by the owner's book, says a sensor is not being satisfied. Note that I had the flexpipe replaced as the old one was cracked. The engine seems to be worse when it is warm, especially on warm days. Sometimes it runs a bit smoother, then it gets rough.
You need to find the check engine light code, it is going to be the letter P followed by four numbers. The monkeys at the repair shop couldn't fix it right the first time and don't start swapping parts like the idle air control valve because its just going to give you frustration and cost money. Some places like Autozone and Pepboys can pull the codes for free. Find the code number and then we can start from there.You need to find the check engine light code, it is going to be the letter P followed by four numbers. The monkeys at the repair shop couldn't fix it right the first time and don't start swapping parts like the idle air control valve because its just going to give you frustration and cost money. Some places like Autozone and Pepboys can pull the codes for free. Find the code number and then we can start from there.
I will check out a pep boys I believe is close to here. thanks, and I'll get back to you. Maybe they will even have the correct fix as well.I will check out a pep boys I believe is close to here. thanks, and I'll get back to you. Maybe they will even have the correct fix as well.
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spark plugs,wires,or coils, if it has a distributor ca& rotor or injector 1rst thing you need to do is get yourself a spray bottle spray the ignition wires if they start arking you need wires if thats not it you need to you need to pull each of the ignition wires out of the coils one at the time but you have to be carfull you dont get shocked if one of them is not arking you need a coil
One thing that i would check is the Crankshaft sensor...Pull off the wiring to the sensor and connect the leads of an ohmmeter to the terminals...Its resistance should be between 700 to 900 ohms.. I would not keep replacing the sensors at random....You will have more money in the car than its worth..A good meter and a Haynes manual will show you how to check the sensors....
Could be misfire. You need to get a code reader to find out what the trouble codes are. You can then better know what to do next. Spark plugs could be the problem. They are easy to change on the four cylinder, and the V6 is a bit of a chore as the intake plenum needs to be unbolted to change the three rear plugs. Get the codes read! best of luck!
What is the check engine light code?
Check engine light, by the owner's book, says a sensor is not being satisfied. Note that I had the flexpipe replaced as the old one was cracked. The engine seems to be worse when it is warm, especially on warm days. Sometimes it runs a bit smoother, then it gets rough.
You need to find the check engine light code, it is going to be the letter P followed by four numbers. The monkeys at the repair shop couldn't fix it right the first time and don't start swapping parts like the idle air control valve because its just going to give you frustration and cost money. Some places like Autozone and Pepboys can pull the codes for free. Find the code number and then we can start from there.
I will check out a pep boys I believe is close to here. thanks, and I'll get back to you. Maybe they will even have the correct fix as well.
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