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1996 Audi A4 2.6 V6 engine code ABC - need advice on how to do the valve timing settings with No.3 at TDC; both heads returned from the machine shop after being skimmed incorrectly set up.
When stripped the engine was set at No.3 at TDC, I marked the crank pulley/ both cam pulley,s with red paint - now when re-assembled the valves are now out of sequence. Haynes manual doesn't cover this engine so need help - thanks
Re: 1996 Audi A4 2.6 V6 engine code ABC - need advice on...
If you plan on doing more than light tuneup work, I highly recommend purchasing a manual for your car.
We have for each of three vehicles a Haynes manual and it contains all the details on maintenance possible for the shade-tree mechanic. All are based on a complete rebuild.
Audi A4
Even if not doing a particular job, one can somewhat estimate what it will cost to have done.
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first off , the service manual did not lie to you. get it and read it first? the real book or reading internet lies from google searching, 3.5L V6 would you blow up and engine off of internet lies, well NO. no year car told. nor in what country. not told which of the 3 , 3.5L engine is is. only used here USA in 1997 to 2002 in say Montero
it needs to be timed correctly , or risk bending all head valves. most DOHC cam engines are interference. the High CR one is .
ok here is your answer the tension'er on this engine is a separate part
if you read the cars service manual all this is covered fully buy it and not wreck valves is a win ( all 3 shown here) It is not one engine is 3.
6g74 IS MADE IN 3 TYPEs of CR, heads CR= Compression ratio. this: 9.5 (SOHC); 10 (DOHC); 10.4 (DOHC GDI) 3 ENGINES MADE, WHICH ONE YOU HAVE NOT TOLD 3 different power spec. HP or KW
SOLD WITH 3 ENGINES, AND LAST ONE IS DOHC AND INTERFERENCE AS 99% ARE,
best is set #1 firing TDC and replace belt and not move cam or crank, win./!! do so on all engines and win, no bent valves ever.
1: set TDC 1 firing. 0 degress 2; off the tensioner (linear rod type) 3: off the belt 4: preload he tension'er use a nail. 5: remount the tension'er device. new belt on pull the nail above. and so on, reverse of dismantle.
If the engine is an interference type (most are these days) there will almost certainly be a few bent valves when the timing belt breaks and possibly worse damage. Once you have verified the problem and gone as far as you can towards locating and diagnosing the likely faults the cylinder head will have to be replaced for further examination.
There should be no need to manually identify tdc of the timing cylinder (usually at the timing belt end but not always) as the manufacturer usually provides accurate timing marks. I would guess you need to read a bit about engines in general and about your engine specifically.
On the freelander it's done that way so none of the pistons strike the valves like when taking the cylinder head off as these pistons come very close to the valves on these engines but if you take off the crankshaft pulley wheel the true mark will be on the gear that the cambelt sits around use this mark on this gear if you want no1 piston at tdc and set the cams up with their irrelevant marks at the same time
I found this web reference for a 2 year older Dodge that might help: On 98 dodge dakota with 3 9 V6 how do set up the distributor
This web reference indicates a VAST difference between the V6 and V8...so you could be on the right track with your 180 degree comment:
"The V8 mark is 17.5°after TDC and the V6 mark is 147° after TDC"
Good luck on your troubleshooting ... and kudos to take on an engine rebuild!
Hi, to set the timing you should turn the No.1 piston to TDC, then turn the cam to where both valves on No.1 are close. The timing mark on the sproket should now be in line with the mark on the cilinder head. With No. 1 still on TDC fit the chain. After fitting turn the engin a few times by hand to make sure there's not a valve pushing against a piston.
A diesel uses a different procedure. You'll need a tool to hold the camshaft pulley parallel to the top of the cylinder head. The timing mark to set TDC for piston #1 is located on top of bell housing. The pointer must be aligned on the diamond cut on the flywheel. A VW/Audi setting bar tool #2065A is needed to lock the camshaft in position. Lock the injection pumpin position using the special lock pin (VW/Audi special tool no. 2064). Caution: If the drive belt is broken or has jumped time, do not attempt to lock the sprocket at this time!!! You will also need VW/Audi special tool no. VW210 to measure belt tension between camshaft sproket and injection pump sprocket. So good luck.
The valve timing must be out. You will need to verify that the timing marks on your camshaft sprocket(s) are set at the correct position when you rotate the engine to the compression stroke on TDC.
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