I have a 97 astro van that will not start. Cranks fine but will not start. It has spark, compression, battery voltage, coil checked out fine, crank sensor checked out fine with battery voltage, but how do I know if its faulty. when I wiggle the cps it makes noise like the ones the fuel pump makes. distributor is good, fuel is at 50 psi. Recently the intake gasket was replaced due to coolant leak. Had oil changed and there was evidence of a lot of coolant in motor.

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Click on the link, the diagram is for starter motor. Will the starter motor crank the engine? If it cranks good but won't start, make sure battery has a full charge and connections all good. Have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the plugs. Spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Check fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes. Those are the basic checks, in my opinion.

Have the module in the dist. Checked. When they go bad it will not start.

First thing to check is the ASD relay and voltage at the coil.

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? The basics if it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, check fuel injector pulse.
Crank the starter intermittently so it doesn't overheat. You need spark--fuel--compression, proper amounts at proper time, where applicable, or it won't start.

The fuel pump pressure shoud be 55-61 psi . Check for spark by removing a ignition wire at a spark plug and put a spark plug in wire and hold to engine ground and crank engine , if no spark then remove coil wire at cap and repeat.If still no spark then coil , module,,crank sensor or pickup may be the problem.
Check fuel pump pressure first and if available check for codes for possible crank sensor.

Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


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#1 NEED TO VERIFY SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS # 2 CK FUEL PRESSURE AT SCHRADER VALVE ON FUEL RAIL ,,PRESSURE DEPENDS ON TYPE ENGINE ....IF NO SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS CHECK SPARK FROM COIL WIRE , IF NO SPARK AT COIL ,CHECK VOLTAGE TO IGNITION COIL SHOULD BE 12 VOLTS, IF NO VOLTAGE AT COIL ( KEY ON ) CHECK FUSES THEN IGHITION SWITCH. IF NO FUEL PRESSURE AND FUEL PUMP RUNS REPLACE PUMP .. CK VOLTAGE TO FUEL PUMP WHILE CRANKING . CK USING PUMP GROUND WIRE AT THE PUMP CONNECTOR THIS WILL PROVE GROUND ALSO. USE TEST LIGHT TO VERIFY

Check fuel pressure and check for spark and check that the airflow meter is operating, check for timing as well. Check for any wiring problems(loose connections, corrosion, condensation in distributor cap. Check distributor cap+rotor plug wire from coil to distributor. Check for any worn or damaged wiring or bad ground wire contacts. Air, Fuel, Spark and Timing are the key elements for an engine to run.

crank shaft sen. is easy enough to change.its mounted near timing chain cover,cam sen.is somewhat harder,its in the distributor,id doubt that both are defect

better check that distributor cap for damage on the inside. It's simple. Just need a flat tip screwdriver. If thats fine. I'd check voltage to coil and if it was 12 or more I'd through a coil at it. It's an easy repair.