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Is this the definite answer? For some reason 37 Ib ft sounds low for the upper ball joint castle nut for some reason... That is what I used though regardless...Is this the definite answer? For some reason 37 Ib ft sounds low for the upper ball joint castle nut for some reason... That is what I used though regardless...
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if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.
Front end is a pretty vague description of what you are trying to do.
There are
- shocks
-lower ball joints
-upper ball joints
-inner tie rod ends
-outer tie rod ends
-idler arm
-pitman arm
-center link
-stabilizer links
-stabilizer bars
It is not likely that all of those need to be replaced at the same time?
The inner and outer tie rods are pretty self explanatory remove the nut from the knuckle. Whack the knuckle a couple times where the tie rod goes through and the tie rod will pop out. The inner will releas the same way. Get the sleeve whe you get the inner and outer tie rod. It will make life a lot easier. Assemble the new parts to the approximate same length as the parts you removed and install.
The idler arm will be bolted to the frame and then have a ball and socket that will be removed in the same manner as the tie rod end.
The pitman arm will require a puller to seperate it from the gear box. Sometimes you have to heat up the end that attaches to the gear box to get them to pop. Sometimes the gear box needs to be removed in order to get the puller on the pitman arm.
Lower and upper ball joints are also very common on these. If they have not been done I would have them checked as well.
Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs
jack up the the side with the broken ball joint under the control arm. Remove the axle nut (4x4) remove the caliper and the rotor. remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Remove the upper and lower control arm nuts and remove knuckle from vehicle.
Using a ball joint press remove and install the ball joint.
tighten axle nut (4x4 only) to 133 lb-ft after everything is assembled.
Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped
Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
Steering components
Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm)
Remove the idler arm from the relay rod
Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud
Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
Relay rod from the vehicle
Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Relay rod to the vehicle
Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
Removal & Installation
NOTE
This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.
On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Tire and wheel
Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
Outer tie rod retaining nut
Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
Lower ball joint retaining nut
Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
Steering knuckle from the vehicle
Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
Tire and wheel
Lower the vehicle
Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
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