Car lost electrical power while driving, then lost all power

SOURCE: dash board instruments died, along with electric windows

Under your hoods you should find a box like cover which covers your primary fuses and relays. In the old days, there were fusible links in vehicles which supplied primary power to different systems, for instance one to ignition, one to the interior dash panel and instruments, and another to exterior electrical and lighting. In newer vehicles like yours the old fusible links (which were basically a large gauge wire with a metal strip inline) have been replaced by heavy duty blade style fuses. You can purchase a very inexpensive automotive test probe which lights up when current is detected at almost any auto part store, or Wal-Mart (or similar stores). These probes look like a screwdriver with a pointed end and a wire coming from the back or out the side. The handles are clear plastic and have a bulb inside. The easiest way to test the fuses is to get one of those probes. If you choose to do so, simply connect the clip on the end of the wire to a piece of metal on or near your frame or engine. Remove the cover to expose the fuses. On each fuse you will see two metal points on either side that are exposed on the face of the fuse where the rating of the fuse is displayed. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position but don't start the vehicle. To verify that your probe is grounded (or earthed) touch the pointed end to your positive battery cable. It should light up. If not, select a different metal location to connect the ground clip to. Be sure that you are not connecting the ground clip to any wires, as they may be "live" and you could cause a short! After finding a good ground, test your probe again. Once you get it to light when touching the positive battery terminal, you can begin testing fuses. Touch the pointed probe end to the small metal pieces on the fuses one at a time. Be sure to test both sides of each fuse. If you get no light on a particular fuse, jot down the name of the fuse. If you get light on both posts of a fuse, that fuse is good. If you get light on one side but not the other, it is again a a bad fuse.

Now, if any of your fuses tested as bad, replace them with the same rated fuse and try your vehicles out to see if power is restored to the missing systems. If power is not restored, or if none of the fuses test bad, go back to your list of fuses that did not light on either of their test points.

Check the names or numbered locations of those fuses against your owner manual to see if they have anything to do with the place where you are missing power. If this is the case, you can try replacing the relevant fuse. However, normally if a fuse does not light on either test point it means that there is no power being supplied to the fuse itself, which means you likely have a broken wire or bad connection to the "fuse block" which supplies power to the fuse itself, and from there to your inoperative system(s).

Let me know how the tests go and I'll see if I can help you further if need be!

SOURCE: 1996 Plymouth Voyager dies after driving 20 miles

I had the same problem last year. For me it turned out to be my fuel pump.

SOURCE: Sputters then dies

fuel filters act like this as they clog, they allow a low flow of gas to the motor which allows it to run however as you press the gas and the rpms go up it requires higher flow- as a result the motor chokes itself out by not receiving enough fuel to operate. Another option is that the spark plugs are fouling, or the fuel relay

SOURCE: Fuel pressure intermittently drops causing sputter and die.

check for 12v constant at your fuel pump if you are not getting that replace your relay.
if you are getting 12 volts at your fuel pump the fuel pump is possible to run tuel it gets warm then shut down to a lower rpm I would then replace the fuel pump

SOURCE: Vehicle was parked and not started for 2 months.

Hi, there will be diodes in the generator that are letting the power from the battery drain away through the parked times when not in use. to prove it charge the battery- then disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, connect 24 hours later and see if the battery as kept it charge, if so - fit new alternator, good luck.