Replaced all electircal parts under the hood when engine turns over i only get one spark from coil then no more can try again a few minutes later same thing one spark and thats all, no fire to the plugs at all this is on a 1976 dodge truck 318 motor thank you

SO WHEN ENGINE STALLS DO HIGH LAMPS DIM OR GO DEAD?
TOO>?
Can you stop or delay the stall with a fast right foot action?
the time to diagnose it as at the stall.
not after the few minutes, later, you can not fix later as it is not broken yet.
can be caused by 50 things
but on macro mode.
bad engine
bad spark
bad fueling ,be it too little or too much.
when parked and dead does WOT cranking make it start and run/
wot= wide open throttle.
or dead engine crank it with 5% (a tad) throttle) start now, when dead./?
running 27 year old spark, plugs, wire sets ,distrib cap and rotor?
OLD PLUGS NEED NOT BE HERE, AND NEW GAPPED CORRECTLY
TRY NKG PLUGS,OEM SPEC TYPE.

LEARN HOW TO THE THE ECU CEL LAMP FLASH (BLINK CODES)
AT ENGINE DEAD?
PER SERVICE MANUAL WAY (JUMPER WIRE TO DLC)

no mileage state, nor from last full tune.
it needs a tuneup this decade.
oldest story on earth (cars) (bad spark)
no ignition parts (high voltage) last the life of any engine,. 300k+
so we do what is called a full tuneup at about 60,000 miles.
also called doing the 60k service point list.
open glove box, take out operators guide, yes, really
turn to the 60k page. bingo.

high voltage breaks down all the insulation,
over time.
all.
even your power company must do this. or BOOM,
Have 2 dead friends from BOOM. 17kv distra. systems.

no engine stated so can not be specific.

• 2.0 L 3S-FE I4 (petrol)
• 2.0 L 3S-GE I4 (petrol)

my guess, is tghis.
The third-generation 3S-GE was produced from 1994 to 1999.
1996 is a big change year, OBD2
and from Distributor spark to none, at Aug, 1996 they swiched
to the DIS system. with a wasted spark coil pack only.
replace the HV wires, and spark plugs.
end story.

if the scan tool shows, P030x errors. fix X
if x is 2 cylinders it might be a bad coil pack,(last thing to replace)

there are 3 spark systems , at this evolution
Distrubutor with internal coil.
wasted spark coil under TB, with 4 HV wires.
and coil over plugs, later, called COPS, 4 coils.

yours may be wasted spark system with 4 HV wires,. replace them.
show a photo of the engine, and i can ID it. in 1 second.

good luck.

Sounds like it could be a similar issue to what I just went through. My car wouldn't start on two separate occasions after I had refilled my tank. First time happened a little over a month ago, the starter would crank, and crank, but no signs of life in the engine. Tested the spark plugs, I was getting spark, but the ****** wouldn't start.
Had it towed to the dealership, and they said after 4 long attempts, they got it to start. I took it home, and the next morning I couldn't start it again. Towed it back a second time, and it started right up for them. Drove it back home again and a a month later things started acting up again.
A few days ago the wife pulled the car out of the garage, where the car was level, stopped the car on our slanted driveway and when she came back to start it just minutes later, it hesitated, but did turn over. I filled up the tank and the very next morning, I could not start my car again.
Called for a tow from AAA, and the driver said "let me try something". Pulled out a hammer, and wacked the bottom of my gas tank 4 or 5 times. The tow guy gets in, tuns the ignition to engage the fuel pump (didn't turn the key all the way), he does this about 4 times, then the very next turn of the key it starts right up. The driver said it sounded like a bad fuel pump.
I drive the car back to the dealership (this is the third time) and talk to the same guy I had dealt with all along. He calls me later in the day to tell me they finally got it to not start and were able to isolate the problem to the fuel pump sensor. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and I was off and running.
Hope this helps!

hi, i have to clarify first of all, i think when you state the truck won't crank, you mean crank and start, and i will have to assume this is what you mean in order to answer in this case. now, i have personally owned one of these vehicles, and worked on several regular s-10's, and blazers without turbos, there is two problems i see consistantly that you can check. first is the ignition coil wiring connectors. they get loose inside the electronic ignition coil and when too much resistance occurs(bumps, heat, etc.) the connection gets lost and the coil stops firing. the way to test for this, locate the ignition coil under the hood first of course, then when the vehicle dies, open the hood and wiggle the two gray and black connectors and try to start after this. if it starts, replace the coil and check the wiring to make sure the plastics haven't melted and the pins are straight and uniform. now the other repair i see all the time is the ignition control module. same principle on the heat concept, it heats up and shut off causing the vehicle to die. for testing this one, you should go get a simple inline spark tester from your local auto parts store that has a sight glass with a light. when the vehicle dies during driving, plug the tool inline with the ignition coil secondary ignition wire(coil wire, the large one of course) and if you have someone with you it might be easier, and crank the engine and watch for the spark to light up the light. if no spark, pretty much your looking at a failed ignition control module. 8 out 10 times i'd say this is the case. now, there may also be a crankshaft position sensor on your vehicle, depnding on the split of year, there was some turbo trucks that got the newer block and had the crankshaft sensor. this can also fail and does do so often, if this is the case, and your engine does have the crankshaft sensor, and you perform the spark test -the second one i spoke of with the inline tester- you may want to replace the sensor first. it is cheaper than the module, and easier to get to, it should be mounted right below/beside the harmonic balancer(front crankshaft pulley) and will have three wires. final note, do not perform the inline ignition test to test for the coil, only the wiggle test on the four small wires that are in the connectors, if it starts, this is the coil. hope you can decipher the long pargraph into form. if you need other assistance or have more questions, post a comment, i will check periodically.

check fuel pressure to the fuel pump

My first guess would be the fuel filter. It is probably almost completely plugged.

Try checking the spark plug, and the spark wires, if that doesnt clear things up then try replacing the roter under the distributor cap and check the cap for any corrosen

you probbably damaged the distributor coil when you pulled the wire off
recommendations:
try pulling battery lose for few and see if it helps
replace distibutor coil and wires to plugs and replace plugs

THE STARTER IS GOING BAD

so you have spark is the rotor button truning when you crank the mtr over. sorry these may seem like mundane questions but this what i need to know. you stated that the timing belt was replaced has the vech ran seens the belt was replaced?