Tranny has a shudder when your between 34-45 mph +-.. When your trying to maintaining a steady speed, when you just apply the gas and start to put a load on, it shudders.. Not sure if its the t. converter not guite engaging or if it wants to down shift. If you apply gas harder, it downshift fine ,and no shudder. Its just when your almost coasting and barely press the gas,
The shifting sequence releases one clutch as it engages the other, so it may be one or the other out of timing, so there is a partial engagement or disengagement. Does the tranny oil, on the dipstick smell burned, or feel significantly different than fresh fluid? How many miles on the fluid? What model 95 Dodge? Has the tranny been rebuilt some time in the near past? (I ask that because, years ago I had a BMW tranny rebuilt by a very good shop ans noted on the work order that it had to be built and filled only with type F fluid. When I picked up and road tested the car, the tranny made an groaning noise on the up-shift. I took the dar back to the shop and asked what fluid it was filled with. They said Dexron II. I pointed out the work order and my telling them to only use type F, . They changed the fluid and refilled with type F, which was a waste because the clutch plates were contaminated with Dexron, so they decided to rebuild the trans mission,l They did, and filled it with type F and it was just as bad, so they claimed there was probably a problem in the valve body. I asked them what fluid they soaked the new plates in before assembly, It was Dexron, so they rebuilt it again using tyoe F for the pre soak of plates and bands, The tranny worked perfectly.
For a Chrysler product, I would only use Mopar brand fluid, even if the manual said there was an acceptable substitute. This is also true for the brake fluid and coolant, as the cost of a mistake can be huge. Remember, whoever changes the fluid is married to any problems that show up. I owned a six bay repair shop with a full machine shop for ten years before retiring. We did not do transmissions, it was legally safer to have them done by a reputable transmission shop or the dealer, bringing them the vehicle.
SOURCE: vehicle shudders at 35 and 40 mph
front or rear. you may have a shifted belt in a tire. to test this ... take off each tire and roll it down the driveway by itself... if it won't roll in a straight line or is very rough.... that tire needs to be replaced.
SOURCE: Engine shudders when idling in gear, check engine light on
Take a run into Autozone, or Pep boys, or similar big autoparts store and they will do a free code scan, to point everyone in the right direction instead of guessing, and throwing parts at it. If the fix isn't obvious after codes recorded, get back to us with code(s) and will help you out if still needed.
SOURCE: Chevy Impala 2002 when accelerating shudders very
I had the same problem with my 2002 Impala w/ 3.8L.
No check engine light.
My problem turned out to be the MAF sensor. I replaced mine, but you could try to clean it first. I've done that on a few other cars.
Here's a picture of where the sensor is located. I took the picture when I had the radiator out, so it may be confusing. It's located on the big tube going from the air filter to the engine. I recall that you have to pull the engine cover off first.
Unplug the connector.
There are two screws holding it in. They may be special security screws that require a special torx drive.
After you get it out, you can try to clean the small, small sensor with MAF cleaner from the parts store. Spray, soak, spray, soak... until it gets shiny clean. Do not use a brush. It has a super fine wire that can be broken. In this picture, you're trying to clean that little thing in the central window suspended between the two posts.
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