2000 Daewoo Leganza mbalance in rear disc brakes. tested fluid pressure at calipers and it is ok. changed caliper still no better, any suggetions?

SOURCE: daewoo front brakes

The single-piston floating-caliper disc brake is self-centering and self-adjusting. The caliper is able to slide from side to side so it will move to the center each time the brakes are applied. Also, since there is no spring to pull the pads away from the disc, the pads always stay in light contact with the rotor (the rubber piston seal and any wobble in the rotor may actually pull the pads a small distance away from the rotor). This is important because the pistons in the brakes are much larger in diameter than the ones in the master cylinder. If the brake pistons retracted into their cylinders, it might take several applications of the brake pedal to pump enough fluid into the brake cylinder to engage the brake pads

SOURCE: 2006 Ford Five Hundred anti-lock brake pad replacement

hi its rare the pads stick to the rotor but obviously this one was welded metal to metal so if the other sides not down to the metal you won,t have the same problem now getting the piston back into the caliper if you don,t have the tool its going to be fiddling but you need to get some pressure on the piston as to shove it back in not to much as you have stated it has to be screwed back in once a pressure has been applied [could try using you c-clamp ] then the slots in the piston insert something that will turn the piston it will locate and start to screw back your going to need pateince as it is fiddling with the correct tool you may need a few attemps but the other side should not be as bad as the piston has not gone past the point of return take your time and check for leaks when you have them all assembled yates210456

SOURCE: no brake line pressure on 1 caliper after replacing caliper

I suspect you may have twisted the hose on re assembly. The other possibility is that the bleed nipple is choked with dirt and rust. Remove it completely and see if the fluid starts to run out. If so replace nipple or clean out.

Cheers John

SOURCE: 2000 daewoo leganza radiator fans not

there's a sensor on the radiator that tells the fan to come on a serten temp,replace that,there normally on the side,just release the clip and pull it out,make sure it cold before you remove it as the water will come out.

SOURCE: Calipers do not fully release

The real problem may actually lie with the Brake Line Hoses. These are the Rubber Hoses that go from the metal brake line to the Calipers. Because of the changes in pressure, over time they will "fray" on the inside walls. These frays are gate like. Fluid will go out to the Calipers, but cannot return back up the line towards the Master Cylinder.
One easy way to check this, to find out where the problem is:
With the Hoses still attached, take the Calipers off, and remove the brake pads. Pump the brake several times to full expose the rubber dust boot around the Caliper Piston. DO NOT PUSH the Caliper all the way out! Using a block of wood and a 6-inch or larger C-clamp, place the block of wood over the Caliper Piston, place the C-clamp over the back side of the Caliper (do not put the C-clamp on the Hose connection). Screw the C-clamp in onto the wood onto the center most point of the Caliper Piston. The Caliper Piston should push straight back into the Caliper Bore with relative ease. However, if you encounter resistance- stop. Make sure the C-clamp is centered and pushing the Piston straight back evenly. If it is straight but still hard to push in, stop and remove the C-clamp and wood. Push on the Brake Pedal again to fully expose the Dust Boot around the Caliper Piston.Again do not push the Caliper Piston out of the Caliper!
Now remove the Brake Hose. To save on Brake Fluid loss, make sure you keep the Master Cylinder full, and the caps on tight.
After disconnection of the hose, raise the end of the hoses up and place in the Strut Coils.
Again using the C-clamp and wood, try pushing in the Caliper Piston back into the Caliper Bore (hole). If it now goes in without much resistance, the Calipers are fine and the Brake Hoses need to be replaced.
The Master Cylinder rarely fail but it is a possibility.
The other possibility is the Caliper Bolts and Guide Pins. These heat-up and warp, alowing the Caliper to work (brake) but then the Caliper will not release because these guides are warped.
I took the liberty to look-up the Parts and Prices:
(I don't work for them_
Autozone Part #70978 (driver-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #70979 (pass-front) Hose for around $13.
Autozone Part #H15911 (Caliper Guide Pin/Bolts) for around $5.


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