Will a 2 dr 1991 door actuator and latch assembly

If the driver door lock on your 2002 Ford Explorer is not working even after replacing the actuator, there could be a few other possible causes for this issue. Here are some things you can check:

1. Wiring and connections: Check the wiring and connections leading to the actuator to make sure they are in good condition and properly connected. A loose or damaged wire can prevent the actuator from working correctly.
2. Door latch assembly: The door latch assembly is responsible for locking and unlocking the door. If it is damaged or worn out, it can prevent the actuator from working properly. Check the latch assembly for any signs of damage or wear, and replace it if necessary.
3. Door lock cylinder: The door lock cylinder is the part of the lock mechanism that the key inserts into. If it is damaged or worn out, it can prevent the lock from working properly. Check the lock cylinder for any signs of damage or wear, and replace it if necessary.
4. Central locking system: The central locking system is responsible for controlling all of the door locks in the vehicle. If there is a problem with the central locking system, it can prevent the driver door lock from working properly. Check the system for any error codes, and repair or replace any faulty components as needed.

No ,it's not the actuators . It could be the BCM - body control module.

How to test computer controlled door locks
Each door lock switch is wired to the body control module (BCM) through a separate door lock/unlock signal circuit. While these circuits are separated between the BCM and respective door lock switch, they are connected into a single circuit within the BCM. The BCM supplies voltage through the door lock/unlock signal circuits to each door lock switch. When either door lock switch is operated, this supply voltage is pulled to ground, providing the BCM with the required lock or unlock signal. In order for the BCM to distinguish between a lock and unlock signal, the lock switch contains two separate paths for this voltage to flow to the same body ground. When the switch is operated to the unlock position, the supply voltage flows to ground through a 1.5 K ohm resistor. When the switch is operated to the lock position, the supply voltage flows to ground through a different part of the switch circuit, which has no resistor. The BCM then interprets the flow of voltage as a lock or unlock request and powers the door lock actuators to the appropriate lock or unlock position.
The BCM powers the reversible door latch assemblies by providing battery positive voltage and ground to the appropriate lock and unlock control circuits of the door latch assemblies. The Lock control circuits of the driver and passenger door latch assemblies are all connected together; however, the Unlock control circuits are connected in a slightly different way. While the unlock control circuits for the passenger door latch assemblies are connected together, the door latch assembly has a separate unlock control circuit. The system is designed this way so that the keyless entry transmitter may be used to unlock only the driver door. Despite this difference, all of the lock actuators perform much the same way. When the door latch assemblies are not active, all actuator Lock and Unlock control circuits are at ground potential within the BCM. Transitioning of the lock actuators to the lock or unlocked position depends upon which control circuits receive voltage and which control circuits receive ground.

There are actually three relays , an there are controlled by the BCM - body control module !
When a door lock switch is activated in the lock or unlock position the BCM will receive a voltage signal on either the door lock switch lock or unlock signal circuits.
The BCM, upon receipt of a lock switch lock or unlock signal, will switch the appropriate lock relay control circuits to battery positive voltage. This will energize the appropriate lock or unlock relays. The relay will supply voltage to the door lock actuator lock or unlock control circuits to one side of the lock actuator. Since the opposing side of the lock actuators are connected to ground through the other lock actuator control circuit and the normally closed contacts of the lock or unlock relay, the doors and liftgate will then lock or unlock appropriately.
Three relays are used to operate the locks. DRV DR UNLCK relay, PASS DR UNLOCK and DR LCK relay. This is done to isolate the driver door lock actuator so it can be unlocked by itself using the keyless entry transmitter.
Rear Hatch/Gate Description and Operation
The liftgate can be opened by operating the switch on the instrument panel. Battery voltage is supplied to the liftgate actuator through the body control module (BCM). The BCM will pulse the liftgate actuator when a release input is received through the key fob, or the instrument panel switch.
Door/Lift gate Latch Assembly

1. Install a 20-A fused jumper wire between the control terminal 3 and 12 volts. Install a jumper wire between the ground terminal 2 and ground.
2. Verify the actuator turns on & off.

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If the function does not perform as specified, replace the applicable door latch.

The actuator is held in place by 3(?) or 4(?) screws on the latch side of the door. Make sure window is all the way UP! First, remove the door upholstery and the splash liner. Next, disconnect the two metal linkages running from the lock/latch assembly. You may now remove the screws holding the actuator in place. Remove electrical plugs. Transfer the linkages, plug in the electrical connector, slide the assembly back into the door, replace the screws, etc. After an hour or 2 you should have a repaired lock assembly and no more buzzing. Expect to pay around $65 including shipping for the new actuator. Good luck...

OK, if you have the door panel off, that is 80% of the battle. What happens id that the door lock actuators get stuck halfway between lock and unlock. The hard part is getting the thing unscrewed from the latch assembly. This is normally done with the latch mechanizm removed from the door (pretty easy), but you cannot do that if the door will not open. I have been known to drill some 1/2 inch holes in the sheet metal to access the screws that hold the lock actuator in. On some vehicles, this is not necessary. You will have to look at your situation and see what works best. See the picture below that shows the latch assembly, the lock actuator, and the screws that must be removed. (Note the immage is turned sideways to the way the assembly actually is in the vehicle) (1) = actuator (2) = screws, and (3) is the latch assembly.

Once the lock actuator is removed, you should be able to work your door lock and get the latch to open. sometimes, you may have to poke around and manually move the linkages that the lock actuator usually is in charge of moving for you.

These vehicles have weak door lock actuators.the door in question will need a new lock actuator.It comes with the door latch assembly.remove the door panel,disconnect all wiring and cable to inside door handle,peel back insulation glued to door,next remove rod coming from outside door handle from latch,remove wiring connector from latch,remove three screws holding latch in.carefull y guide latch out.

First, replace the door pins and bushings to take the pressure off of the latch and lock actuator assembly. When the door sags and it gets slammed shut, it can break the plastic housing of the actuator and then it doesn't work any more. The latch and lock actuator are all in one assembly. It will need to be replaced after the pins are done.
And, don't use the door as a crutch when entering or leaving the truck.

You have to examine and compare the two doors. I am just guessing but I would bet that it is the power mirror that your new door is lacking.

Just follow the wiring into each door.

1. Power locks wires should run to a region near the latch mechanism.
2. Power Windows wires should run to somewhere in the middle of the door.
3. Power mirror should run almost straight up towards the mirror assembly.

If it is the power mirror assembly you should be able to transplant your old one provided that it is not damaged.

If it is power windows, adapting power windows will be much harder as the new door may or may not have the provisions for mounting the regulator, etc.

If it is power locks you may need to transplant the latch and actuator assembly along with its wiring.

Rear
Removal

1. Using a small screwdriver, remove the screw cover from the armrest of rear door trim panel (27406).
   

1. Remove the two retaining screws.
   

1. Using Trim Pad Removing Tool from Rotunda Windshield and Moulding/Trim Removal Kit 107-R0401 or equivalent, pry rear door trim panel from door inner panel.
   

1. Disconnect electrical connectors.
   

Installation

1. Position rear door trim panel on door inner panel, aligning two locators on rear door trim panel. Reverse Removal procedure.
   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rear
Removal

1. Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05 .
   

1. Check all connections of remote control links and cables. Service as necessary.
   

1. Remove remote control assembly.
   

1. Remove door latch remote control assembly from latch assembly.
   

1. Drill out rivet at bellcrank and link (264B14).
   

1. Remove three screws attaching latch assembly to door.
   

1. Drill out rivet that attaches actuator motor to door.
   

1. Remove latch assembly with actuator motor and door latch control rod lever link assembly.
   

Installation

1. Install new bushings and clip onto latch assembly.
   

1. Install latch with links and power lock actuator into door cavity.
   

1. Position latch assembly to door, aligning screw holes in latch and door. Install three screws. Tighten to 10-13 Nm (89-115 lb-in).
   

1. Attach door latch actuator motor to door with a new rivet.
   

1. Install bellcrank and link to door using a new rivet.
   

1. Install inside door handle and remote control assembly to door.
   

1. Open and close door to check latch assembly operation.
   

1. Install watershield and door trim panel. Refer to Section 01-05 .
   

Item Part Number Description 1 221A00 Door Handle to Door Latch Actuating Cable 2 26446 Rear Door Control Rod Retainer 3 377901 Plug Button 4 26412 Rear Door Latch 5 W623451-S2 Push Nut 6 224A32 Counter Balance 7 22450 Door Outside Handle Tension Spring 8 W701210-S309 Screw 9 224A20 Outside Door Handle Anti Rattle Pivot (2 Req'd) 10 22404 Door Handle 11 224A24 Front Door Outside Handle Spacer (2 Req'd) 12 264A64 Rear Door Actuating Rod 13 22408 Outside Door Handle Anti-Rattle Bumper 14 22428 Outside Door Handle Large Pad 15 N621906-S2 Nut (2 Req'd) 16 N807329 Screw (3 Req'd) 17 26595 Rear Door Electric Latch Actuator (RH) 18 W701566-S47 Rivet 19 431C04-A Rear Door Latch Striker Assembly 20 — Door Lock Striker Plate (Part of Door Shell Assy) 21 W525172-S Rivet (2 Req'd) 22 264B14 Bellcrank and Link (RH) 23 264A50 Bushing 24 N802034-SG Rivet 25 26420 Rear Door Latch Control Rod Link 26 W525172-S Rivet (2 Req'd) 27 21818 RR Door Latch (Inside) 28 A26460 RR Door Latch Push Button Rod 29 21982 Door Latch Rear Striker Assembly 30 N808377-S101 Screw (2 Req'd) 31 250A04 Rear Door Catch 32 N801010-S100 Truss Head Bolt (2 Req'd) 33 N804234-S2 Screw 34 266A74 Rear Door Latch Actuator Retainer 35 24630 Rear Door 36 26552 Rear Door Latch Control Escutcheon A — Tighten to 21-29 Nm (16-21 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 10-13 Nm (89-115 Lb-In) C — Tighten to 7-8 Nm (62-70 Lb-In) D — Tighten to 26-34 Nm (20-25 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 3-4 Nm (27-35 Lb-In)

I have a 1999 Suburban that has several of the door latches that do not operate properly with the remote button or the power door lock button on the door. If your locks open okay with the key, it is most likely the lock actuator that is the problem. The coils on these can get weak and not be able to operate the locking mechanism. Changing them out is probably required. Haven't actually changed mine yet, but have taken door panel off to lubricate actuator rod. This helped only briefly. Good luck. The actuators themselves are quite expensive from the dealer. ($60-$80 each, excluding installation)
If you mean the door handle on the inside of the vehicle, it is probably broken. So, when you pull on it it can't pull the actuator rod. You have to change the handle assembly. They cost about $40. But you have to drill out the rivet. So buy a pop rivet gun and a trim removal tool. 1. Un-bolt the window regulator panel (after you have removed the trim panel) 2. Pull the top the panel back a bit. Lowering the window about 3 inches will help. But, don't pull on the panel too hard. 3. Stick rim removal tool in there and pop off the power door look rod. 4. Use you hand and pop off the handle actuation rod 5. Drill out the rivet on the latch assembly 6. Slide assembly forward and remove. 7. Do things in reverse to reassemble