Is it hard to replace hub bearing on gmc jimmy 2001

3/8 allen wrench or hex socket,pry bar to get caliper off,screwdriver and hammer to get off dust cover,side cutter to remove cotter pin, channel pliers remove nut then pull the rotor off grease bearings and reinstall in new rotor.

remove wheel, brake caliper, etc., all items to gain access to hub assm...remove axle nut, hub mounting bolts, ABS harness, remove...

should just pull of if washers are removed, most of the time you can replace studs with out removing hubs/rotors

If it's a 4x4 they can't be greased. The bearing is pressed into the hub.

If it's 4x2 you'll have to remove the caliper. Take off the dust cover on the rotor. Remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer, to pull the rotor off and grease the inner bearing.

If it's 4x4...Loosen the lugs. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer. Jack it up. Pull the wheel. Remove the caliper/bracket. Trace the ABS sensor wire into the inner fender and unplug it. Remove the nuts/clips that hold the wire from moving around. Look on the back of the hub (spindle) for the three bolts that hold the hub and bearing in place. Remove them and pull out the hub and bearing.

is it a 4x4? the wheel bearing comes with a new hub assembley . Just find out what size the front half shaft nut/ lock nut/axle nut- is. its probably a 33mm thats the only special tool you will need. Unscrew it, take your outer tie rod off the spindle/steering knuckle, theres 3 bolts behind it, take them off then disconect the abs harness and pry out the old hub assembley use a rubber hammer (dead blow hammer) to tap the half shaft out if seized. when installing the new wheel bearing see your manufacturer specs. for torquing the axle nut back on.

2000 gmc jimmy front cv axle nut (36 mm) torque ratings?

if u have to replace the whole hub asym it will come all togather.. or as a set of bearings that just sit in the hub.

take frt tire off,brake calyper and bracket,disc rotor,undo cv shaft bolt,unplug abs sensor under rubber splash guard ,undo 4bolts for hub bearing assembly from steer. knuckle.

Yes if your shock is bad it will MAY have tweaked the bearing just a bit. It doesnt take much at all. When the pressure is off the bearing (ie 2wd) your shock should keep that bearing from moving "Floating" around a whole lot in the hub, when you add the 4wd now you have the drive axle and the shock keeping the bearing from "floating" moving around. 4wd is a more stable for your suspension which helps to keep things in align (hence the more power and stability). You may have a good bearing here, but may have a bad hub. Since you have replaced the hub and the CV Shaft. I would suspect you are having a bearing issue. The bigger question is how and why? Feel free to ask me anything more about this. I am willing to help you in any way I can to help you get this resolved. Is there anything else that you think maybe contributing to this? Anything parts you replaced other than the hub/CV Joint?

Thank you for using FixYa!

Sincerely,

JC

unfortunately your bearing assembly is a sealed unit and you have to purchase it as a complete part. they do have a way to change out the bearing at a shop, however the labor cost involved would most certainly be alot more than a replacement it's self. I have come across this problem many times and it's not as easy to switch them out as you have been told. i hope this helps. (note) to repalce them on your vehicle if you don't do the work yourself have a small shop do it not a dealer shop. the cost will be alot less. the labor time should be no more than 2 hrs. that is roughly about no more than 120- 150 dollars for the labor . if the place you take it to quotes you way more than that take it somewhere else... good luck please rate this