Why are my wheel bearings failing again

More like a Sticky Caliper yes but now you need to change this bearings again if it been over heated.
Take care

Typically I replace all 4
It is not uncommon for lowere price bearings to fail.
If one replace the other 3 use a mid to higher price bearing.

check left front wheel bearing or cv joint

My 95, years back went out under warranty. Had it replaced by the dealer and it went out again the next winter. It was replaced again under warranty. I was told by the service manager that the actuator needs to be install a certain way or they will fail again. You might try checking with a Chevy dealer or on a forum for more answers.

It could be the the wheel bearing...again, as you said. I also would like to know if you had the front end aligned when you changed the wheel bearing. If the tires have excessive wear on the outside or inside tread, you are out of alignment and BOTH wheel bearings need to be changed! It could also be the brakes wearing thin...check it out!

Yes, unfortunately they could.
It might or might not have anything to do with the bearings, but that torn boot just might be the culprit.
Your bearings are sealed from the factory, so they should not have been compromised by the boot, but if you ever took your car into deep water, that water might have migrated into the bearing from the inside.
This is NOT likely, but is possible.
More likely is, you got a bad bearings.
Happened to me 2 years ago.
The "new " bearing installed by the dealer lasted 1 year, then failed. God bless your efforts.

Traction light is part of the ABS brake system. I had to the same problem 2 years ago and my auto repair guy said it was my front hub bearing. I replaced both sides with new hub bearing (right & left wheel) and now I have to replace the left one again. The thing about 04 grand prix gt they have a wheel/hub bearing problems. GM never recalled for this problem

You cannot check universal joints with the driveshaft under tension. Trans needs to be in neutral (wheels blocked or on jackstands)
If diff is noisy, check gears by removing cover and checking lube for metal debris, gears for "sharpening" on edges. Generally it is cheaper to replace unit with one from a scrapyard. Any work regarding bearings or gears requires precise depth and lash adjustment or the unit will quickly fail again.
Universal joint failure will cause a "clunk" when engaging reverse or drive and also can cause vibration similar to out of balance tires. Worst case is a rhythmic squeak while going about 10-20mph.

Is the wheel bearing failing or the wheel sensor inside? Is the vehicle totally stock or does it have aftermarket whells on it? Some aftermarket wheels have the wrong offset and put excessive strain on the hubs if you have the wrong wheels change back to the factory wheels and see if your problem goes away.

When you install the bearing are you replacing the complete hub? The torque spec for this is 130-174 ft.lbs. Also are the rims and tires of stock size?