I have a 2001 Camaro convertible, LS1 V8, 4 spd automatic with 2.73:1 rear-end, has a broken front yoke where the u-joint fits on the rear end. What other yokes from other cars will interchange?

Chevrolet / GMC / GEO Transmission Look Up Table

www.autorepairmanuals.biz/page/372807

Blazer, 1993-, 4L60-E. Blazer, 1994 - Up, 6.5L V8 Turbo Diesel, 4L80-E. BLAZER/TRAIL BLAZER/JIMMY, 1995-2003, 4 SP RWD/4X4, L4 2.2L L6 4.2L V6 4.3L ...

Transmission Applications - GM Automatic Transmissions

www.gmautomatictransmissions.com/transmission_applications.php

Avalanche, 2001-06, V8 5.3L 5.7L 6.0L, 4 Spd RWD/4X4, 4L60E. Avalanche, 2004-06... Camaro, 1994-05, V6 3.4L 3.8L, 4 Spd RWD, 4L60E. Camaro .... Monte Carlo, 1997-05, V6 3.8L (W/S.C.), 4 Spd FWD, 4T65E. Monte Carlo ... Silverado, Sierra,1500-3500, 1995-06, V8 4.8L 5.0L 5.3L, 4 Spd RWD/4X4, 4L60E. Silverado ...

4L60E Transmission Rebuilt ' eBay

Use white paint, chalk or a scribe to mark the relationship of the front U joint to the front diferential pinion yoke. Mark the relationship of the rear U joint flange to the transfer case companion flange. Unbolt the front end of the drive shaft from the pinion yoke and the rear end from the transfer case companion flange and remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
hope thei info helps.
sammyc47

Lift the rear end of the Explorer with a floor jack. Place jack stands underneath the rear axle, by the leaf spring perches and lower the Explorer onto the stands. Pull the floor jack out of the way. mark both ends of the shaft for reinstalation.

2

Crawl under the rear end and unbolt the universal joint retaining straps from the rear differential yoke.

3

Pull the drive shaft and universal joint away from the rear differential yoke by hand.

4

Remove the retaining rings that hold the universal joint into the drive shaft with needle-nose pliers.

5

Support the end of the drive shaft on a jack stand and place the socket extension against the universal joint cap in the drive shaft yoke. Tap the socket extension with the dead blow hammer until the universal joint cap comes out of the yoke.

6

Clean the sockets in the drive shaft yoke with the tip of a pocket screwdriver to remove any built up road dirt or other gunk.

7

Remove two of the caps from the opposite ends of the replacement universal joint. Be careful to keep the bearings in the caps.

8

Position the replacement universal joint in the drive shaft yoke and put the cap on the outside. Use the socket extension and dead blow hammer to tap the cap through the yoke far enough to expose the retaining ring groove. Put the retaining ring on that side with the needle-nose pliers. Repeat this for the other cap.

9

Move the drive shaft back up to the differential yoke, line up the new universal joint with the differential yoke and reinstall the universal joint retaining straps with the wrench. Lower the rear end off the jack stands with the floor jack.

Remove transfer case shield. Remove clamp on boot
where front drive shaft meets transfer case. use a flat
screwdriver to pry free end up and release clamp. (you need a special clamp tool to reinstall clamp )
Remove 4 bolts at differential end that hold U joint Retainers to yoke. Slide drive shaft to rear enough to clear yoke. then let drive shaft drop so it clears differential and slide forward until it come off transfer case shaft.

Before you do anything, park vehicle on flat, level concrete floor in an area larger than the vehicle free of clutter, children, pets, and nosy neighbors or uninvolved personnel. Actual helpers are permitted, and in fact one is recommended, to act as a real helper/gofer, and to take action in the event of an accident or emergency. Let some one know you are going to be doing this, and carry a cell phone with you under the vehicle.First, remove negative cable from battery. Second, using a regular floor jack and good jack stands for added stability, raise the front of the vehicle high enough to get under it, and remove the drain plug from the transmission fluid pan (if applicable), or remove fluid pan from transmission, allowing used fluid to collect into a catch-pan of at least 3 gallon capacity. If you have to drop the pan because you don't have drain plug, remove the filter (it just snaps into the valve body), then replace pan with a bolt at each corner; don't worry about the gasket or torque specifications. Third, disconnect the two fluid lines from the transmission, using line wrenches to avoid damage to the line fitting nuts. Using wire or twine, tie these lines off to the frame out of the way of the transmission case. Fourth, unplug any electrical connectors and disconnect the 5-guage red starter wire from the starter motor, the shift linkage, TV cable, and speedometer cable (if so equipped) at this time. Fifth, jack vehicle on all four corners to a height of at least 24"from truck body floorpan to ground. Jack up vehicle all the way around, not just the front. This job CANNOT be done safely on wheel ramps. The entire vehicle must be off the ground, and VERY securely supported by the frame. This is dangerous if you do not make absolutely sure that the vehicle WILL NOT FALL.
Sixth, remove the U-joint clamps from the front yoke of the drive shaft and from the rear end knuckle. Gently prise the drive shaft from the two U-joint halves and remove from under the vehicle; set clear of work area. On some vehicles, you cannot remove the U-joint clamps from one end of the drive shaft, but this operation is still possible; it depends on your vehicle's configuration. Hopefully, you can remove the U-joint clamps from both ends of the drive shaft because this makes it much easier to remove the front yoke from the transmission. The front yoke just slips into the tailpiece drive shaft seal of the transmission and is held in place by the length of the drive shaft when completely assembled. Just pull STRAIGHT BACK firmly on the yoke until it comes out of the tailpiece drive shaft seal. It is customary for some fluid to leak from the transmission tailpiece when the yoke is removed. If your vehicle is a Four/All Wheel Drive model, repeat this operation AND Step Four for the transfer case and front drive shaft.
Seventh, remove the tailpiece mounting bolt from the crossmember under the rear of the transmission.
Eighth, remove the four bolts (2 on each side) which hold the transmission crossmember to the vehicle frame. DO NOT REMOVE THE CROSSMEMBER AT THIS TIME.

Actually a relatively easy job as both the front and rear universal joints are held on with straps and bolts. Assuming the car is safely in the air and not going to roll away, first mark a line on the differential yoke and on the driveshaft so you can reinstall it in the same position. Repeat this procedure at the front end of the driveshaft at the transmission yoke.

Next remove the 4 bolts and 2 straps that hold the front universal joint into the transmission yoke, then you can lightly pry the universal toward the rear of the car and free it from the yoke. Have a prepared place to lower the front of the shaft on such a small piece of plywood or something to prevent it from being damaged. Also take care not to remove the yoke from the transmission to prevent fluid loss, even if you need to temporarily tie the yoke in place.

Next remove the 4 bolts and 2 straps that hold the rear universal joint into the differential yoke, then you can lightly pry the universal toward the front of the car and free it from the yoke.

Thats all! Good luck and totally enjoy one of the best cars ever built!

Take the yoke and driveshaft to your parts store. They will measure it out for you. If you have an old ujoint you can measure that. The nice think about GM is that most of those measurements will end up being the same.

If the u- joints are loose, yes, that would cause the front end to shake.

cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase

I would check the universal joints and the yoke on the rear end. If the yoke actually moves, the pinion bearings are shot.