Changing brakes and rotors

Apart from maybe having to undo the bleed nipple to compress the piston the rotor fits just like the old stuff. No special skills or tools required, the rotor is separate from the hub and the brakes are pretty much the same apart from the possibility of having an anti-return valve which means you have to undo the bleed nipple to compress the pistons - (sorry about repetition but it's just to make it absolutely clear)

Basicly they are the same as the ones you have done.I usually apply some anti squeek glue to the back of the pads to reduce the typical brake squeel.
Dont forget to lube the slides with some grease. so they continue to equalize the pressure on both pads. I dont replace the rotors unless they are ground into metal to metal. most of these do have the rotors that are seperat from the hub. somtimes also depends on if ti is 4x4 or not.

Yes, these brakes are basically the same, some do require that you twist the pistons counterclockwise as you push them back into the calipers. I found that with a good pair of needlenose & just a little pressure while twisting they always go back in to the bottom.
Never bad to pick up a Haynes manual for a few bucks when getting your parts, or at least get the torque specs. The manual offers illustrations & torque specs for reassembly of everything. I checked & it appears you have rotors that are removeable once the calipers & supports are removed. Good luck