Tip & How-To about GMC Suburban

Intermittent Miss

If you have a vehicle that has an intermittent miss...it doesn't cost anything to check the positive battery terminal first; which 50% of the time...is most likely the problem.

Symptoms would be an intermittent miss that might occur three times in a five mile trip...or seven times, to not at all in the same trip.

The positive battery terminal is the input to the ECM and can also be the culprit of nuisance "check engine" lights.

Thanks for trying Fixya.com

Mike...

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how do you change battery

Same philosophy regardless of vehicle or equipment.
CAUTION! Battery contains acid which can also be present in general area. Take appropriate precautions.
1) Dis-connect Negative terminal.
2) Disconnect Positive terminal.
3) Remove battery hold down brackets
4) Remove battery from vehicle. Rinse hands to make sure no acid on them
5) Clean terminal connections (battery post clamps). I use a weak solution of baking soda in water and soak the clamps until the foaming stops, then rinse well with fresh water. It's a good idea to rinse the battery tray with the baking soda solution and then water before installing the new battery.
6) Place the new battery in the correct position in the vehicle.
7) Re-install the hold down brackets.
8) Connect the positive cable to the positive battery terminal.
9) Connect the negative cable to the Negative battery terminal.
10) Start engine to check.
11) All done, Make sure the hood is closed.
12) Nap time.
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erg code 405 how do test it

Potential causes of a P0405 code include:
Short to ground in EGR signal or Reference circuits
Short to voltage in EGR ground or signal circuits
Bad EGR valve
Bad PCM wiring issues due to chafing or loose terminals


Possible Solutions:
If you have access to a scan tool you can command the EGR valve on. If it responds and the feedback indicates the valve is moving properly then the problem may be intermittent. Sometimes in cold weather, moisture can freeze in the valve causing it to stick. After the vehicle warms up the problem may disappear. Carbon or other debris can lodge in a valve causing it to stick also

If the EGR valve doesn't respond to your commands with the scan tool, disconnect the EGR harness connector. Turn the key to on position, engine off (KOEO). Using a voltmeter, check for 5 volts on the reference wire to the EGR valve. If there is no 5 volts, is there any voltage at all? If there is 12 volts, then repair short to voltage in the 5 volt reference circuit. If there is no voltage connect a test light to battery voltage and probe the 5 volt reference wire. If the test light illuminates, the 5 volt reference circuit is shorted to ground. Repair as necessary. If the test light doesn't illuminate check for an open in the 5 volt reference circuit. Repair as necessary

If there is no apparent problem and there is no 5 volt reference, PCM may be at fault, however other codes will likely be present. If 5 volts are present on the reference circuit, jumper the 5 volts to the EGR signal circuit. Now the EGR position on the scan tool should read 100 percent. If it doesn't connect test light to battery voltage and probe the EGR signal circuit. If it illuminates, then the signal circuit is shorted to ground. Repair as necessary. If the light doesn't illuminate, check for an open on the EGR signal circuit. Repair as necessary.

If, after jumpering the 5 volt reference circuit to the EGR signal circuit the scan tool EGR position reads 100 percent, then check for poor terminal tension at the EGR valve connector. If the wiring is okay, replace the EGR valve.

Hope this helps.
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lots of corrosion on the positive battery terminal and it won't s

The corrosion on the positive battery terminal could well be the cause of the intermittent "no crank" problem. Because of the way electricity flows the positive cable is most prone to corrosion and needs to be cleaned more often as a result. If the corrosion gets bad enough it can severly limit the amount of current available to the starter with the result being that the starter does nothing or just "clicks" instead of cranks. I would start by having both battery cables and posts cleaned thoroughly [shiny clean] and once that is done check to see if the remainder of your electrical problems are gone once you have good power available again. You might have more than one problem here but I'd start with the known one and work out from there.
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i have 1993 dodge dakota 3.9l v-6 with trouble codes 12,15 and 55 what do they mean

the trouble codes are as follows code 12 problem with battery connection. direct battery input tp pcm disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles. code 15 a problem with the vehicle distance/speed signal. no distance/speed sensor signal detected during road load conditions. code 55 completion of fault code display on check engine light. this is an end of message code. the speed sensor is located on the transmission/transfer case extension housing. check plug connection to speed sensor for power using an volt meter. connect the positive side of volt meter to the orange wire terminal and the negative side of volt meter to the black/light blue terminal. the voltage should be approximately 8.0 volts and to check the voltage from the pcm connect the positive end of volt meter to the white/orange wire terminal and the negative side ti the black/light blue wire terminal. signal voltage should be 5.0 volts. if there is no signal voltage signal, have the pcm checked out. if you have both signals from the terminals then remove the vehicle speed sensor and check the speedometer pinion for worn or missing teeth.
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