Starter has power to it but has some problem from the key to the starter Does this model have a relay or something?

Two possible issues.
Starter relay (what puts power to your starter when you turn the key) or
Your starter is bad.
I would start with the starter relay because it is cheap and easy to replace.
The whirring sound could be your fuel pump or the starter turning but not connecting to the engine to turn it over. Depends on how loud the whirring is...

Good luck.
Semper Fi,
Z

Bad ignition switch. I have seen lots of these go bad. Also check starter relay. What happened was for some reason the starter relay was activated and sent a signal to the starter to start the car even though the car was running

If the battery is good, then there should be power at the starter solenoid. The solenoid is connected to the starter.The solenoid is energized by the ignition key. When the key is turned, the starter solenoid allows power to feed the starter. Try tapping the starter solenoid while turning the key. Have a friend help and use something non metallic to tap the solenoid. Good luck!

There is probably a starter relay in the under hood fuse / relay box. When you turn the key to start on newer vehicles that power signal isn't going to the solenoid . It's an input to a control module . BCM , PCM etc... Then the PCM energizes the relay closing the contacts sending voltage to the starter . What year , make an model vehicle ? Do you know what a relay is ?

At the starter relay, you have two red or purple wires, one goes to the starter and the other comes from a 30amp fuseable link. Is that fuseable link circuit hot ?
From the key switch, power goes thru the alarm relay, then the clutch safety switch or automatic selector switch, then to the starter relay. The fourth wire on the starter relay is a ground.
You should be able to put power to the starter relay on the white or yellow wire coming from the safety switch to make the relay engage.
My guess is something wrong with the alarm system.

The most common cause of a non-starting car is the battery. It is either weak, (low voltage) dead, (zero voltage) or has bad connections. (corroded or loose) I will assume you have a fully charged battery with good connections. (both to battery and starter relay)
If you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the starter relay and apply +12v from the battery to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. (not to be confused with your key switch). If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken. Picture of starter switch prong on the relay is pictured. NOTE: sparks are to be expected, so don't be too scared. Pictured is a starter relay that is seperate of the starter, on models with starter and relay mounted together, its very similar.

The ASD relay powers the injectors and the coil.
Have you checked it to see if you have power in and out ?
The engine computer grounds the starter relay, injectors and coil, could be something going on with it.

If by lights, you mean the dash lights come on, then ignition switch must be getting power. If dash is not working with key on, check the 30 amp fuse link which powers the ignition switch.
If switch is good and starter is good, the start wire from switch goes to, if automatic, to inhibitor relay (the park/neutral function) and then to starter. There is also an inhibitor switch on the shifter or on the transaxle that turns on the inhibitor relay when key is on and shifter in park or neutral. The inhibitor switch is powered by a 10 amp fuse D.
If you have a manual transmission, the start wire from ignition switch goes to the clutch interlock relay and then to the starter. This relay is turned on by the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal.
You can check for power on either relay, the inhibitor relay or the clutch interlock relay, with a test light. Pull the relay out, have the key held in start position. Now both relays would have power showing on two terminals where the relay plugs in. If inhibitor relay only has power on one terminal or no power at all, either ignition switch is not sending power or fuse D is out or the inhibitor switch is not working right. If clutch interlock switch does not have power on two terminals either the ignition switch is not sending power or the clutch interlock switch is bad.
If the relay checks are good, check for power on the small wire to starter with key held in start. If you have power there, the starter solenoid must be out.

Find the starter relay under the hood. It may be bad and stuck so power continues going to the starter. Try a new relay Or try pulling off the small signal wire on the relay (it is from the switch), and hook battery up. If starter continues to run, the relay is bad. If starter is stopped, put the signal wire back on relay. If starter now starts operating, and key is still off, then switch may be bad .Location of relay may be at left front fender apron, in front of shock tower (like on earlier taurus models).

Have you checked (or wired around) the fuel pump relay?