Engine running -hot or cold- in park or drive the engine rpms go to aprox,500-400 and then stalls. cycle the kry and the engine will run for a while and then start the cycle again

no engine size told.
well there are like vast causes of this
my engine starts but stalls.
even parked in a drive way , transmission in pARK?
The macro causes are 3. (100 yeas same gas/petrol) rules
bad spark
bad fueling (even bad fuel)
bad engine (cam belt slipped) this fail trumps above.
a tech tests them all in order.(based on age, and miles) saves time.
no miles on car stated 100k 200k, 300k miles or more?
when was the last tune up (filters all, spark and belts)
not told. and matters huge.
does it fail cold and hot engine both, or can never get it hot
hot = means normal engine temp, 180f to 200f
is RPM started up, cold 1500RPM or less (or happens too fast to tell)
does engine die just as you shift to DRIVE.?
failures parked are the most easy to find, (moving fast failures hard)
tell more and get more, tell all things the engine does, in all modes of use. AND WHEN AND HOW LONG IT TOOK TO FAIL.
or hot engines turned off will not staRT (BUT CRANKS FAST)?
THERE IS A STORY HERE BEGGING TO COME OUT BUT DID NOT.

THE MICRO LIST IF CAUSES ARE HUGE.
EVEN a bad wire vast.

how soon after it starts does it stall,
1second 1 hour ? what, ?
some engines fail hot soaked, starts cold, but never hot

WHY NOT GET A SHOP TO FIX IT. IN USA AN ASE SHOP !

How long since a tune-up? Have you checked the timing? How many miles on engine? How is your cylinder compression?
There isn't much load on engine in park or neutral. When you put it in gear, there is a load on the engine. With carbed engine 6--8 psi fuel pressure. Crub idle in drive, 575 rpms. With a high mileage engine, that idle speed may not work. Is there an idle screw on the carb, where you can up the idle to keep it from stalling, in gear? Of course if you do that, when you put it in park or neutral the idle is going to go high, I know it's a pain. If your engine is in poor shape, your probably going to have a tough time, getting it to run correctly. Just my opinion.

2000 WJ jeep , USA
when STALLS only driving , any time , or just as I come to stop it stalls. or stalls parked only. my guess parked only.
which engine is there?
3.1L
4.0L
4.7L ?
what transmission, what A/T trans, 42rle or ?
mileage comp. like mine, it's useless. forget that. but dead battery reset that, and is of no matter.
questions are plenty on all cases: (cars are complex!)
the engine stalls.? sure.
in to gear means , Drive and Reverse right?
when you do that the PCM adds more air via the ISC idle speed control valve. and just my do that. and is good sign.

1. besides stalling, does engine and trans work great , driving, like fast /slow, , hot/cold engine, , up hills too, fast?
2. is the CEL lamp in dash on key on and off running.?
3. did you check all fuses.
4. what is miles on engine.
5. when did it run perfect last, 1 week ago, 1year, 10 years?
6. ever get and engine tune up this decade? spark parts and filters?
7. is the ASD relay dropping out just before the stall>?
8. is engine rpm below 800 RPM before the stall? hot engine.
9. does engine reach and old full engine temp, 180F or more?
10. use a scan tool and see all DTC errors yet, dont skip this.

reg codes only work in UK, use real years..... so ROTW can tell.
please, tell what it does good and bad driving, idling , parked, moviing
hot and cold engine, full power from engine on hills.
stalling (it stalls) but when does it stall, under what conditions. hot or cold engine. only at stop lights hot. or>????
when an engine is cold the RPM is very high (iAC device) and it will not stall cold , if it does that is key.
if it never stalls hot. and runs perfect hot say so.
all these, clues build evidence. to what is wrong.
then we do tests.
PS: ever think to get that 60,000 mile (100km) tuneup>> now be it.

it sounds like a crank sensor if the vehicle stalls in any gear or when cold its most likely a crank sensor. located near the bottom of the engine. there almost always behind the balancer pully for the crank shaft

hello Dennis. (no miles stated)
what engine, 4.0L I6 2.5L? I4
ever tuned it up? all spark and filters, the 60k mile, ever?
this post is random engine stalls?
so does it stall hot or cold or both
does it stall moving, right foot planted, cruisng
or only parked, or only as you come to a stop
do dash lamps/gauges or? go out before the stall? (look)
CEL off running.. ok, no DTCs stored if USA car. is it?

my guess is this stall can happen hot or cold engine.
location not in klondike (location not stated, so wild guess.)
hot stalls, ?
1 lets say coming to a stop. is very common EGR sticking open
2 never tuned up, ever or even the last decade?
3: ISC/iIAC sticking closed, jeeps love to do that any I4 , its a big issue. the idle stepper motor cone gets gummed up, clean it.
i clean both my jeeps, I4 ISC like 100 times since 1988.
4: bad TPS. but usually it throws DTC'S for this. if driven hard)

some I6' have no EGR valve. PCM has no EGR pins.!
you can monitor DC power at the CIG lighter, to see if power drops
at stall, easy, 13.3v to 15v is normal or ALT system is dead..

make sure the Automatic shut down relay is not being shut down
by PCM (DB/YL wire) goes to 12v is shut down, 0v is not.
the PCM can cut the ASDR for may reasons, oil pressure or battery overheat,? many, best it to find out of this RELAY is dropping EFI
off LINE. IT can .

lets do stalls.
i see tachometer drop below 800 RPM hot .
i try to save the stall, ISC stuck closed, and my right foot
opens throttle instictively and i save the stall.
easy, that is loss of air. see why?
on mine the stupid, ISC/.IAC works like this
the PCM remembers to ISC positions (stepper)
one cold start and one hot start (a secret i learned)
it then looks at water temps and guess (math) at a best start position.
if it used hot ISC for a COLD start the engine will want to flood due
to valve mostly closed, from last hot shut down,.
so floods, use right foot 10% ,

so i cant comment on what it might be until you state (displacement)
the engine temps. at fail
the operational mode, parked, stopping or between 5speed mt shifts.
or what?
if it fails parked in drive way.
or only moving or only coasting.
stalls on the fly?

im online at alldata.com and there are 16pages for PCM only.

this car the PCM controls the Alternator, (a software reg)

now another tack.
the car in usa, as OBD2, i connect my scan tool
and log, i drive and log. car stalls
i drive home ,play back my logs, and bingo
i see what happens at the stall, all sitting at my desk.
warm and dry.
lost comms,?. is DC power lost.
Pending DTCS
real live DTCS
some DTCS auto clear, at die.
some PCMs will reset the CKP or CMP sensor or spark failures.
so can only be seen live. (watching, 1 more secret)

now Bar stool answsers (any EFI car)
ever tune it up, ever do the 60K>? if not why not now?
lost spark, see if spark is being lost at stall, (at all plugs)
bad fueling, (too high or low fuel pressure at stall)
loss of air (ISC/IAC failed)
EGR (if there) stuck wide open,


if the engine runs perfect at most times, its probably ok
so is bad spark or fuel
spark is first. but not if never tuned up.
fueling is last to check , as PCM cuts fuel with spark failure sensed.
bad fueling can be bad injection or total loss of air supple , at idle.

ok and XL 7 but what engine options. gas, diesel, 2L , 2.5L?
what?
and most important , and never ever 1 time stated on this forum
what country.
leaping?

im not sure what you are saying.
it runs ok cold, and as it warms , the engine. it stalls.?
and what does same thing mean.?
my guess, it starts fine then stalls; hot.
but can you save the stall?

stalling is complex. can be many systems in the car.
but can be broken down to :
Ever did the 60k mile tune up,ever? if not why not.
never skip 60k\'s or the motor will run like garbage.


1: lost electrical power. to EFI .
2: bad engine, in that when it gets hot , it loses compression.
3: lost park. 1 or more cylinders, 4 or 6 you never said.
4: bad injection. 1 or 6 of them, flooding or starving.
5: bad fuel.
6:EGR sticking , usually this happens just before a stop sign.
7: if the stall was a bog and the fast right foot saved the stall, easy
the ISC is sticking closed.

probly o2 sensor, cus when cold the computer does not take into account what the o2 sensor is relaying, but when it is hot it does, try unplugging it when hot and see how it runs, it will run rich but should run ok, if it does its the o2 sensor

those sensors could cause the issue, clean the MAF 1st, also clean the idle system using the following procedure, the IAC can cause cruise surge. I use this to cure these problems all the time.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve (IAC) and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

did you get your radiadator checked?