I tired starting my 1990 ford probe gl 2.2 and it began to crank and then i heard a pop from under the hood, with a small amount of smoke. i changed all the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and am now wondering what else it might be. i think it could be the fuel pump or filter, but i am not fluent in domestics. have good knowledge of imports and other mechanical work but need some assistance in finding this problem. thanx
Check the intake hose that bolts onto the intake if its cracked or **** lettign any air flow it will do that i just had that happen to me adn i cant find the replacement part i need it goes froma metal tube form the blow off valve to the turns into a rubber elbow type deal and i cant find the rubber elbow
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THAT IS CALLED A DEAD STARTER OR NO CRANK . condition. period.
6 TO 10- CAUSES of dead starter.
WHAT WORDS AND GOALS (stages)
CRANKS (key to start/crank) or button start /stop pushed for start.
STARTS (loud cranking heard if engine is dead)_
AND RUNS (grins)
AND STAYS RUNNING, (bliss)
IN THAT ORDER ONLY, MY CAR PUSH STARTS SO GOES FROM PUSH TO RUNS,. JUST 2 STEPS(stick shift bliss this) M/Tbox.
when kid 15yo id park on a hill and do rolling starts. 3 speed manual box then./
turns over means zero, (turns = spins the starter spins and if lucky the engine crank shaft spins or turns and if lucky starts. turns never means runs. ever. it is called RUNNING.
some call running at idle others (old) say engine ticks over.
yes heard all the slang but do avoid TURNS. and OVER.()roger over and out)
I just fixed my neighbors, the hood knows i diagnose cars for free, retired me.
her car the battery reads, 10.7vDC (truth here is only discharged)
2020 Nissan.
head lamps bright, proves nothing here. at all (unless fully dead lamps)
the battery pushes 5 amps to head lamp but can not muster 100amps to the starter. so starter is dead or after 10 tries. tiny clicks heard under hood.
I see dash lamp dim a bit at crank attempts, a huge clue there.
causes. are: in order.
including lies the BCM dash lamp tells. (key IMMO failure lamp glows)
a huge lie there, 2020 car, and I know why the 10.7vdc battery causes most computers on board to lie or be dead.
(fast forward, only here the battery is dead. and no DTC ever stored, after cure.
PCM OBD2 jack we scan the under dash jack, shows comms dead, CAN_bus dead (her car)
and expected by me. (took 20min after my full charge the cars electronics to work again, ) NOTE THE DELAY.
now your causes all and in order
battery lugs, loose or rusty or both no battery ever lasted 17 years, so is on 2 or 3 battery now. or due for 3rd !!!!!
on the gals car above the tag top-o-bat reads 2020 see? I always look at tags.
battery lugs ok, and clean', battery not 7 years old or more.
battery voltage not 10v but 12.6vdc , rested 1hr. is it? if not charge it.we ran a 75ft extension from her house to street to charge it. with my charger.
or drag the battery to the work bench and charge it. or to any shop,say test it. this battery in hand,.. (way cheaper than any tow truck) or jump start it.
my load bank test shows hard failure, even no load, and BAD shows on dial loaded, but the battery in here car is good, and fails this test.
next up, charged, the IMMO key lamp must not show failing key,we tried both. keys.
starter relay bad.
PRNDL fails at start in Park and Reverse both, or just park. bingo SOLVED
the starter is bad, even hot wired it fails keys not near car.
simple failures here, just a starter not the 50causes of engine failure.
I only jumper cable start cars if in some kind of panic (stalled in snow bank)?
I charge the battery first with the tool called a battery charger.
this is more safe for electronics old relic chargers can push 20vdc and never is that safe for modern cars(computers max).
my charger is a smart charger.
this one is real good, 1hr charge and it is 90% charged, from 10.7v.
I pulled up to a convenience store and my 1990 ford probe died and had no power to anything, It ended up being 80 amp fuse under hood main fuse bolted in black with clear top, changed it worked fine after that. hope this helps
check for voltage at the starter first on the large red wire.check your starter solenoid. bypass it with a screwdriver touch the two large studs or large and one small one. and it should engage
not knowing what engine you have....is the "check eng" light on?? it sounds like the AIR BY-PASS VALVE, you can remove it and try to clean it with choke spray, or repl. it...check for vac. leaks, and fuel delivery....hope this helps...GL
could be more than one problem. If you tried to start it right after you blew the hose, something could have gotten wet. I hope you have tried after everything has dried out.
Also the sound could be something related to the timing. You could have lost a timing belt. Need to look into it alittle deeper. Get more info and let's try again.
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