Question about 2005 Chevrolet Colorado
The solution to this issue was recently discovered during our most recent trip to the shop. We told them not to leave the window down when they changed the battery... BUT DID THEY LISTEN...NOOOO.
So quite by accident I was finally able to correct and then test fail the system and test and fix again...
Here you go.;
1. disconnect the battery and connect both the positive and negative cables together(after disconnected))
2. disconnect the window and lock controller in the driver's side door.
3. Leave cables connected for at least 5 minutes
4. Re-connect door window controller and locks wiring harness
5. Place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
6. Connect Battery starting with the negative cable(ensuring not to connect then disconnect, (one swift motion)
7. open drivers side door and turn key to the off position(do not remove)
8. You should hear a series of dings
9 Once dings are heard remove the key from the ignition and you should hear the door lock solenoids activate..
10. Congrats.. Your done and the windows and locks work.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
This is a common Colorado problem. GM bulletin # PIT3164B addresses it. If it is a intermittent trouble it is usually pinched or chaffed wires in the wiring harness in the door hinge area. If not, fuse #42 may be blown ( located in the underhood fuse box.)
They say closing both windows at the same time or operating window and lock switches at the same time blows the fuse.
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
Check the wire harness between the door and the truck body. I had a broken wire that was easy to repair on my 2003 Avalanche.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
Same thing happened to my 04 Canyon four door after I disconnected the battery to replace the vent solenoid for the charcoal canister. There is a single relay that controls both the power locks and the driver's side window, located inside the driver's side window switch. It can get stuck open, either from the BCM sending it into safe mode or, in my case, I think, because of extreme cold. If the battery trick doesn't reset it, like happened to me, take the switch out, remove the control unit from the bezel by removing the four screws and gently take the black cap off by prying out the six plastic tabs. Take the PC board out. Be careful, because not every rocker has a complete compliment of white plastic drive pins for some reason, so if you take the rubber membrane out, take a photo of which ones have drive pins. They fall out and there are 14 holes but only 11 drive pins. The rear windows only have two, and each gets two, but there are four spots (8 total) for each front window and they only get five total. I cleaned up the contacts for good measure, but they looked fine. Then I heated up the relays with a heat gun (on low - not too much heat!) and tapped on them. I put it all back together and it all worked again.
Posted on Jan 07, 2015
Tried the 10 step process with no luck. The last time this happened it corrected itself after a few months.
Posted on Mar 08, 2014
You can do it yourself.
Couple of times when you replace the remote battery, you might have them not working/ responding but just follow the procedure below.
Stand close to the car, hold down the open and close knobs for about 10 seconds. Press them at the same time for 3 seconds; then press the open button as the car opens.
The above procedure is applicable to a lot of car brands. It does not matter how many knobs you might have on the remote fob.
I have carried this procedure out on a lot of brands ranging from Honda, Toyota, Rover, Ford, etc. and it works perfectly well.
Good luck and Rate this.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
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