Changed ECU three times with rebuilt ECU continuing not to start when hooked up to diagnostic machine Says its the ECU all grounds and wires Were checked three diffrent mechanics HELP!!!!!!!!!

Connect white (test lead) and black (ground lead) wires that are branched from harness approximately eight inches from ECM. After leads are grounded, the "Check Engine" light will flash the diagnostic trouble codes. The DTC's are indicated by the flashing CEL.
FLASH, FLASH, pause, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH = Code 23.
If only one diagnostic trouble code is stored, the DTC will repeat continuously until test leads are disconnected. If more than one diagnostic trouble code is stored, each DTC will repeat three times, starting with the lowest, then proceed to the next DTC. After all DTC's have been displayed, the pattern will repeat.I-MARK 84-85

Connect male and female test leads taped into wire harness near ECM. After leads are connected, the "Check Engine" lamp will flash the trouble codes. The DTC's are indicated by the flashing CEL.
FLASH, FLASH, pause, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH = Code 23.
If only one diagnostic trouble code is stored, the DTC will repeat continuously until test leads are disconnected. If more than one diagnostic trouble code is stored, each DTC will repeat three times, starting with the lowest, then proceed to the next DTC. After all DTC's have been displayed, the pattern will repeat.
86-87 Impulse located near the ECM connector, is used to actuate the Engine Control Module (ECM) trouble code memory within the module. Two terminals (A and C) of this connector are used to activate the diagnostic trouble code system in the ECM. With the ignition switch turned On, engine Off, connect a jumper wire between terminals A and C. The "Check Engine" lamp will begin by flashing a DTC 12. DTC 12 = flash, pause, flash, flash. There will be a longer pause and a code 12 will repeat two more times. This code indicates the self-diagnostic system is operating. The cycle will then repeat until the engine is started or the ignition is switched Off. In most cases, DTC's will be checked with the engine running since no DTC's other than DTC 12 or 51 will be present without the engine running. Remove jumper wire from ALDL connector before starting engine. Reconnect jumper wire after engine is running.

Throttle Body Fuel Injection

The ECM test connection is located under the center console.
A built-in, self diagnostic system will identify problems in the throttle body fuel injection system. When a problem is detected, the diagnostic system will illuminate the "Check Engine" light.
When the engine is started, the Check Engine light should turn off.. If the light remains lit, the self diagnostic has detected a problem. To determine where the problem exists, ground the "Test" terminal of the connector with the ignition On, engine Off and watch the check engine light. Each DTC will flash three times (lowest to highest).

Hi, you will need a voltmeter to diagnose the problem. Set your meter to DC, turn the key on, and check the voltage at the positive coil terminal (black wire with white stripe) with the other probe at engine ground. If no battery voltage, suspect your ignition switch or fuse. If you have battery voltage to the coil, next set your meter to AC and check voltage across the coil primary winding (black wire with white stripe and other black wire) while someone cranks the engine. You should have at least 1 volt AC or more. If no AC voltage, suspect your crank angle sensor inside the distributor. The distributor would have to be replaced, so you would want to be sure it's bad. There are some specific tests you could run, but I would need to know the exact engine you have to provide correct test procedures.




TESTING

E16i, CA16DE and CA18DE Engines
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

Fig. Fig. 1: Crank angle sensor testing terminals-CA16DE engine

Fig. Fig. 2: Crank angle sensor testing-E16i engine

Fig. Fig. 3: Crank angle sensor testing-CA18DE engine

1. Disconnect the CMP electrical connector.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3. Using a voltmeter and check the CMP power source between terminal B and a known good engine ground. The voltmeter should read approximately battery voltage.
   
   If reading is as specified, proceed to the next step. If reading is not as specified, check power supply circuitry.
   

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Using an ohmmeter, check the CMP sensor ground circuit, by connecting the meter between a known good engine ground and terminal:
   
   E16i engine- terminal D . CA16DE and CA18DE engines- terminal A .
   

1. Continuity should exist.
   
   If continuity does not exist, repair open in ground circuit. If continuity does exist, proceed to the next step.
   
2. Start the engine.
3. To test the sensor 180° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:
   
   E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 17 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 21, 31 and a known good engine ground.
   

1. To test the sensor 1° signal, connect a logic probe between the following terminals:
   
   E16i and CA18DE engines-ECU terminal 8 and a known good engine ground. CA18DE engine-ECU terminals 22, 32 and a known good engine ground.
   

1. The logic probe should indicate that a pulse signal exists in both tests. If a pulse signal was not present, inspect wiring. If wiring is okay, replace the crank angle sensor.

If only 2 injectors will not operate, I would start by swapping the 2 injectors to another location and see if the problem persists. If it does, replace the injectors. If it continues on those specific cylinders, replace the ECU (engine control module). The ECU is what contains the "drivers" for the coils and injectors otherwise known as the ground circuit which is signaled by the CPS which you indicated you have already changed. Let me know what else I can do for you.

If the diagnostic came up with the code for the camshaft sensor and you have replaced it have you erased the fault from the memory on your cars ecu if not do so as without doing so the problem will still exist.

It could be several things: A faulty crankshaft position sensor, a problem with the ECU, a bad ground, a faulty mass air flow sensor, faulty camshaft position sensor, a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay. If you have a large chain type auto parts store ex.(autozone, advanced auto parts, pep boys) nearby, once you get the car started you can go there and they have a diagnostic tool that they will hook up to your car and test it for free, It may read some codes that may pinpoint your problem. If no codes come up, I would be inclined to believe it may be a loose wire or bad ground somewhere.

Given the history of this product (early 1990 Mitsubishi products) I expect it is the engine ECU, located behind the radio. You'll need to remove the two pieces of carpet trim/panel off of the tunnel, pop off the plastic caps (one on each side) and remove the phillips head screw. The trim now loose will in-hook from a point near the fire-wall and then back by the shifter. Looking behind the dash in the middle the ECU will sit vertically and the (3) yellow electrical plugs within it, unplug these and remove the three bolts/screws holding it in place (if my memeory serves they are No. 10 metric) Note the MD number on the ECU this is important as you must keep this common with the replacement. The death of these ECUs are the (3) capaciors within them. If you like you can open up the ECU and look for these; under them you might notice a thick grease like substance, this is the failure of a leaking capacitor. It is possible for you to replace these capacitors (must be done with care) If you purchase a rebuilt unit the
new capacitors are of better quality and less prone to leaking.

The attached link should assist.

http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/ECUrepair.html

I hope this may have assisted you,
Tom

sounds like wiring problem engine harness

THERE IS ONE COMMON FACTOR ABOUT COMPUTERIZED CARS "IF YOU HAVE A LOOSE OR FAULTY GROUND WIRE "THE DIAGNOSTICS MACHINE WILL READ FAULTY THUS MAKING IT A TRIAL AND ERROR PROBLEM AT THE DEALER
WHAT I RECOMMEND IS CHECK OR HAVE YOUR GROUND WIRES CHECKED THERE SHOULD BE ONE FROM FIREWALL TO BLOCK,1` FROM BLOCK TO CHASSIES,1 FROM BATTERY TO BLOCK ,1 FROM BATTERY TO CORE SUPPORT AND PROBABLY MORE CHECK REPAIR MANUEL FOR ADDITIONAL GROUND WIRES

First check for power and grounds at the sensor. Check for voltage at the signal wire, and continuity on the signal wire bt the sensor and the ecu. if all your circuits are OK then replace the sensor.