Play in steering wheel replaced upper and lower ball joints and out and inner tie rod ends. what next?

Bad tie rods that are not steering the wheels but let the wheels lag behind your steering efforts. You can also have a bad ball joint(s) that do the same thing as bad tie rods.

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Loose tie rod or other suspension component. When my inner tie rod was loose the car would shake like crazy

Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Joints, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.

Wheel Barrings:

Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar under the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lower the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.

On your vehicle this is a sealed Hub.

Ball Joint:

Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.

Tie Rod ends:

You have changed the inner and outer tie rod ends so you are probably covered there.

CV joint:

The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.

Brake Rotors.

You have already changed the rotors so this is not likely the issue.

You don't give any specific info about your vehicle, but I'd first look at tie rod ends (both inner and outer). It could also be wear in the steering sector (especially in a older unit). Check also to see if the steering shaft from the steering wheel is connected to the steering sector by means of a "rag joint"

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea, while you're at it to check the upper and lower ball joints.

Another (although much less likely) culprit could be the inner "A" frame bushings.

you need to do what i call a dry check i do before performing an alignment have someone sit in truck and shift steering wheel from side to side lightly while you look at steering components check for loose pitman arm,drag link if used inner tie rods outer tie rods or excessive play in steering box then jack up each front wheel and check upper and lower ball joints

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

1.It isn't a lower or upper ball-joint, lower ball-joint, nor tie-rod end. A lower ball-joint being bad, would make the front-end shake. Upper ball-joint, and tie rod ends being bad, would make steering erratic.

Sounds more like the problem is in the steering box. In all actuality, it almost sounds like the power steering pump wasn't changed. Are you sure it's a new, known, good pump?

Hi Bobby69d
I think what you're talking of is the rack end....which you'll need to replace...depending on where you are in the world, it's probable that the parts your talking about will come in sets of rack ends and tie rod ends together....You'll definitely need to replace that broken part.....when you're dealing with that one test the tie rod end for play...(that's the part which fits into the wheel side of the unit)....Once finished on the side your working on, check the other side too and replace were you need to....You would be doing yourself a favour to check the ball joints too....Those are the balled joints that allow the steering wheels to turn left and right....On your vehicle there are two on each wheel.....upper and lower.....If any of them break when you're travelling at high speed, you can end up in hospital or worse.... You may also be putting the lives of those around you at risk too

We want you around for a long time yet....Have a good happy long Life

Best regards Johngee10