1995 Toyota Corolla 1.9 Automatic. Starter clicks, but no spin. Tested good at parts store (bench test). Cables and ground cleaned and good.

Just because the battery is fully charged it may still be the problem. it needs to be load tested and the cells checked, Any Autozone or other parts stores do the testing free, also verify the battery cables are free of corrosion and tight, best to take them off and clean them then reinstall.

Well if you're having problem starting check these few things 1st.

make sure the battery cables and posts are clean and tight

Check to see if solenoid/starter wires are clean and tight that come from the battery big red one

Battery fully charged 90% of the time it is one of or all of the 3 above.

If no start THEN:
to test the starter it has to be removed and bench tested

hold starter firmly hook up jumper cables to large pos red post and black to ground on starter somewhere.
with a jumper wire hooked to the little post then touch big post with jumper. starter should spin. It will spark, that's ok just hold it firm If not

test solenoid, Is it engaging to turn starter if not replace it

THEN if not spinning replace starter

Hope this helps let me know Mike

This is old; you've probably already fixed it. Starter relay, battery, and battery cables/terminals are all suspects.

The only thing I can suggest is cleaning the terminals on your battery and cables make sure the battery is charged turn on your key and see if you have lights in the dome and headlights if you do it's a starting issue

CHECK BATTERY VOLTS SHOULD BE 12.6 VOLTS MAKE SURE BATTERY CABLES AND BATTERY POST CLEAN FROM CORROSSION.MAKE SURE BATTERY CABLE TIGHT.IF ALL IS GOOD REMOVE STARTER WITH SOLENOID AND HAVE IT BENCH TESTED AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORES.IF STARTER OKAY. STARTER FUSE AND RELAY OKAY POWER IS GETTING TO STARTER. YOU COULD HAVE FAULT IN THE THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM.TRY TURNING ENGINE WITH A WRENCH TO MAKE ENGINE NOT LOCK UP. WARNING TO KEEP FROM LOCKING OUT RADIO TURN OFF RADIO FIRST BEFORE REMOVING NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.

Sounds like a bad starter drive gear. The gear has a one way clutch so that it does not over-spin when the engine starts. When the clutch is bad it slips in both directions. Rebuilt starters can be anything from excellent to bone-yard fresh junk, depending on the remanufacturer. You should be able to get just the starter drive and install it; but buy from a reputable parts store, not a bargain center like Auto Zone etc.

COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hi, I am an ASE certified auto repair technician with 35 years experience, specializing in diagnostics. If my answer helped you a positive testimonial is appreciated, good luck with your problem.

This type of problem is normally caused by a bad connection. You need to start off by cleaning the battery cables and battery terminals. If they look clean, go ahead and clean them anyway. Clean them with a wire brush where they look like bright shiny metal, and make sure the connections are tight. Then have your battery load tested at an auto parts store that tests battery's. If this doesn't fix the problem then the starter can have problems. Just testing a starter when it is off of the vehicle isn't real accurate, because the starter isn't under load turning an engine. Many of the people in auto parts stores testing starters don't have a good idea of what they are doing. I have found this to be true over and over, and they will tell you a bad starter is good.

check battery voltage or have battery load tested at parts store voltage should be 13 volts or better if battery is low also test alternater for output most parts stors will do this for free. if battery is up to voltage make sure car is in park and try starting if no start try starting in neutral. if starter does not spin clean all battery terminals. if starter does not engauge remove starter and have tested at local parts store.

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).