I have a 2000 w plate escort, the lower arms have been replaced, tracking checked ok but have steering problems when you let off the power at about 60mph the car swerves all over the place and when you grab the camber of the road also but breakes in a stright line.

If you have struttes the I would have the lower control arm brushing looked at , the could need replacement.. if you have upper control arms have them looked at also.. if your getting a clicking sound when you turn and its front wheel drive, then your CV joints need changing

What do you want to know?

Might check, Bushing on Control Arm, Top Plate, Shock Absorber !

the power steering pump! itself is weak!! the vane drive in the pump as well as the presssure regulator valve in the pump just has excessive wear and needs to be replaced with a new pump

one of the lower track control arm bushes badly worn

I have to replace my pulley as well; all of the information I've found on the net say's you need to remove the whole engine mount plate assembly from the left side of the engine and that you can't replace just the pulley.

Well they're all full of ****; rockauto.com sells a replacement pulley, you'll find it in there online catalog. In order to replace the pulley, you will need to remove the power steering pump and support bracket, with the power steering pump removed, the tensioner arm will move to it's rest position with the pulley mounting bolt hidden behind the support bracket, you can push down on the tensioner arm against the spring pressure to expose the allen headed mounting bolt and get an allen wrench on it.

Rockauto offers three different pulleys from about 15 to 25 dollars.... not a terribly easy job, but very doable and about $300.00 cheaper (part only) than replacing the tensioner arm asm.

Good Luck!

The tie rod ends are at the inner wheel of your steering rack.

Loosen the road wheel and jack up the car, then put the car on an axle stand.

Now remove the wheel.

There is a locking nut on the steering arm locking the tie rod. Slacken this nut and replace it finger tight.

Undo the nut holding the tie rod to the hub assembly.

Using a ball joint splitting tool, loosen the tie rod ball joint and lift it clear from the hub assembly.

Now unscrew the tie rod and count how many full turns it takes to come of the steering arm.

Refitting is the reverse of the dismantling proceedure. However count the turns as you put on the tie rod, the same way as you did when you took it off.

When all the work is done. You will have to get the tracking checked out by your local tyre centre.

Ray

I would suggest that you have the wheel alignment checked and also all ball joints and lower arm bushes

1.It isn't a lower or upper ball-joint, lower ball-joint, nor tie-rod end. A lower ball-joint being bad, would make the front-end shake. Upper ball-joint, and tie rod ends being bad, would make steering erratic.

Sounds more like the problem is in the steering box. In all actuality, it almost sounds like the power steering pump wasn't changed. Are you sure it's a new, known, good pump?

check lower stearing shaft u joint...