Cant disconnect pushrod from clutch pedal to

Removing a brake or clutch master cylinder is a fairly intuitive process and the only real problem is squirming under the dashboard to extract the pushrod clevis pin from the clutch pedal and then put it back again when fitting the new unit.

Other than the pushrod on most models everything else is under the bonnet - the fluid pipe and usually two retaining nuts or bolts. Sometimes there isn't much access but in the case of difficulty the use of a mirror and a good light will allow inspection so using suitable wrenches it will be possible to work solely by touch if necessary.

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• CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
• REPLACE

Clutch Master Cylinder ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Replace The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
A hydraulically operated clutch. To Remove:

• Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
• Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
• Disconnect the tubes.
• Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
• Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.

To Replace:

• When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
• Bench bleed the cylinder.
• If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
• Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
• Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
• Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
• Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
• Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
• At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
• Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
• Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
• Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder

Yes, the reservoir is part of the Clutch Master Cylinder Assembly. Below is an exploded view of your Clutch Master Cylinder. The master cylinder mounts to the firewall in the engine compartment directly in front of your clutch pedal. Note in the picture the part marked "pushrod". This is what actually connects to the clutch pedal itself.

In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.

1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.

1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.

Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing


Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork

Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

clutch is supposed to be self adjusting. Here are instructions for replacing the adjuster:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel using a steering wheel puller, Tool T67L-3600-A or equivalent.
3. Remove the lower dash panel section to the left of the steering column.
4. Remove the shrouds from the steering column.
5. Disconnect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod from the brake pedal.
6. Rotate the clutch quadrant forward and unhook the clutch cable from the quadrant. Allow the quadrant to slowly swing rearward.
7. Remove the bolt holding the brake pedal support bracket lateral brace to the left side of the vehicle.
8. Disconnect all electrical connectors from the steering column.
9. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column to the brake pedal support bracket and lower the steering column to the floor.
10. Remove the 4 booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel.
11. Remove the bolt that holds the brake pedal support bracket to the underside of the instrument panel, and remove the brake pedal support bracket assembly from the vehicle.
12. Remove the clutch pedal shaft nut and the clutch pedal, as outlined above.
13. Slide the self-adjusting mechanism out of the brake pedal support bracket.
14. Examine the self-adjusting mechanism shaft bushings on either side of the brake pedal support bracket, and replace if worn.

To install:

1. Lubricate the self-adjusting mechanism shaft with motor oil and install the mechanism into the brake pedal support bracket.
2. Position the quadrant towards the top of the vehicle. Align the flats on the shaft with the flats in the clutch pedal assembly, and install the retaining nuts. Tighten to 32-50 ft. lbs. (43-67 Nm).
3. Position the brake pedal support bracket assembly beneath the instrument panel, aligning the four holes with the studs in the dash panel. Install the four nuts loosely.
4. Install the bolt through the support bracket and into the instrument panel. Tighten to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
5. Tighten the four booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
6. Connect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.
7. Attach the clutch cable to the quadrant.
8. Position the steering column onto the four studs in the support bracket and start the four nuts.
9. Connect the steering column electrical connectors.
10. Install the steering column shrouds.
11. Install the brake pedal support lateral brace.
12. Tighten the steering column attaching nuts to 20-37 ft. lbs. (27-50 Nm).
13. Install the lower dash panel section.
14. Install the steering wheel.
15. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal on the battery.
16. Check the steering column for proper operation.
17. Depress the clutch pedal several times to adjust the cable.

Removal:
1.From inside the cab, carefully pry the clutch master cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin.
2. Disconnect and remove the interlock switch.
3. Remove as much fluid from reservoir as possible and place shop rags under the master cylinder to catch leaking fluid.
4. Disconnect hydraulic line from the master cylinder and plug lines and outlets to avoid contamination and excessive fluid loss.
5. Remove the two nuts retaining the clutch master cylinder.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal exept after installation, bled the system.

they use a hydrolic system wich use fluid if your gears are not grabbing and its slipping no udjucment require because the cluck is bad but if you cant put it in gear when it on then its your hydrolic system

clutch master cylinder is located drivers side firewall,right next to brake master cylinder. it has small shot glass size fluid resevoir mounted above it,fluid is fed through hose down into clutch master. clutch master cylinder has a rod mounter on ft of it that goes through firewall and attaches to clutch pedal under dash . clutch slave cylinder is mounted on ft passenger side of transmission assy. most common leak is from master cylinder,you would be able to look under dash ,follow clutch pedal up to where it attatched to clutch master pushrod.follow that rod to wear it meets up to a small 1 1/2" or so rubber boot.fluid will be leaking from that boot if master is leaking.

Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.

Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles

1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.

Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:

1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
   1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
   2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
   3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.
   
   
4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.

WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.

ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:

1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.

get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.