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Posted on Oct 29, 2009
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The car idles up and down after it's gotten warmed up. what exactly would cause this and what would I need to fix it?

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Marvin

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  • Mazda Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 29, 2009
Marvin
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Do the following, it should cure the problem.

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Vincent G

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  • Mazda Master 2,363 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2009
Vincent G
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Low / uneven idle problem can cause by a lot of components.

Dirty air filter

Dirty injectors + o-rings

Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.

====

For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.


Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.


Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.


Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the ROM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.


PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

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Anonymous

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  • Master 453 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 29, 2009
Anonymous
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EGR valve and dpfe sensor. More than likely its the sensor but I would replace both. Both control idle.

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Learn more here:
http://www.chinasinoy.com/service/car-rough-idling-causes-and-how-to-fix-it-108.html

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The high idle is caused by the choke and the high idle on the carb. It is working normal and you do won't to warm up this motor before going. When it is warm and you hit the gas it activates the choke pull off to bring the idle to normal. Your mechanic is used to fuel injection that will control the fuel/air mix according to temp. I still let my injected cars warm up so the oil can thin a little. If you jump on the highway with cold thick oil it can all wind up in the to of the motor.
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