1996-99 GM trucks.There is a diode, located under the dash between the steering wheel and the radio, fastened to the round dash bar. The bolt that holds it on, threads into the top of the bar, it is near impossible to get at with a wrench. It is a finned block of (usaully black) aluminum about 2 inches squared 3 inches long. I found a easy way to get it out. Looking up you will see two tabs bent holding the diode in a bracket, bend them out of the way( you may have to bend the bracket a little aswell) and with patience the diode will slide out of the bracket, then disconect the electrical plug-in. I have found that this is the main reason for day-time driving light failure
Also, check your emergency brake pedal. Make sure it is all the way up. If it is down just one click the day time running lamps will not come on.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Often lights under a dash or indicators just blow out bulbs. If more than one thing isn't lighting and are centralized check fuses to see if its blown. Bulb or fuse. IMHO. MIGHT be a sensor on tranny too. Hope not.
Here's a video with detaile dinstrauctions and other people's fuse questions. New fuses?
The fuses that protect your headlamp circuits are Fuse Numbers [4] (Left High Beam), [5] (Right High Beam) [6] (Left Low Beam) and [7] (Right Low Beam). Fuse 4 is a 10 Amp fuse Fuse 5 is a 10 Amp fuse Fuse 6 is a 20 Amp fuse Fuse 7 is a 15 Amp fuse All are located in the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment.
The difference between a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country with DRL and WITHOUT DRL is that one has a DRL module and the other does not. The headlmps themselves are wired exactly the same.
To make yours work, you would have to add the DRL module and reprogram your Body Control Module (BCM) to accept the DRL module. Doing it any other way would probably result in the BCM setting fault codes and possibly even causing malfunctions in other non-headlamp-related circuits.
If it is anything like my 04 GMC Sierra, there is a relay panel under the hood. In that underhood box where you found the fuses, there are also relays. They pop out (the diagram is on the lid of the box). After the GMC hit 200k, the relays started going out. The high beams are on a relay, the lowbeams are on a different one. You can pop one out and replace it with the horn or foglight relay if you want to check it out. I am betting that the DRL bulb just happened to go at the same time. Mine go out regularly..I would say around every 10-15k miles. I don't know if this helps, it is just something that I have run across with a similar vehicle.
This vehicle may have a daytime running lamp control module, probably needs replaced. May be able to pull fuse under hood in fusebox for a cheap fix. Its labeled DRL in lid of fuse panel.
The problem with the DRL issue describd in the above posts is the DRl module(it needs to be replaced). The buzzing relay and intermittent on/off of passenger side DRl are indicators that the module needs to be replaced.
×