I have a 1999 dodge neon with a 2.0 dual over head cam that has no spark. I replaced the coil pack,spark plugs and wires,cam sensor, and crank sensor and still nothing

ever see the car run good before, or just died dead? out of the blue?>
cranks ok or not. (grrrr grrrrr sound, or not)_ called cranking the crank shaft. fast.
cranks starter motor fast and not starting?
or never cranks the starter motor at all silent starter?????

2002 Dodge Neon, with secret motor under the hood.
2.0 liter engine, 132HP. or he 2.4L I an not guess engines ever
SOHC or DOHC engine were there, both an OPTION./
VIN F or VIN C engine they are not the same.
the twin cam engine DOHC is interference engine that must not be timed wrong ever. I'm told both are but my test is most strict ask.
"Power on no 1 and 2 coil plug wires but none on no 3"
does power mean HV spark or the primary side has power
yes it does if fuse is not blown, all fuses good is first. ok , all.
ASD sends 12vdc to the spark coils.

"Looks like it is one tooth out on timing.( the cam belt wrong?)
really? no engine PCM likes that, it can bend valves on some engines. never time a cam wrong .or boom happens.
the non COP engine (1 coil pack)
has just 1 coil pack with 4 HV terminals
there is no spark timing at all, (is cmp + ckp)_
cam wrong wrecks cam time and spark both.
CMP sensors and CKP sensors set spark timing, and are fixed in the case of crank. (the cam CMP sensor will be off if belt is timed wrong.
WASTED SPARK if you replaced the 4 spark wires 1 by 1,
there would be no mixup and spark would be good.
Coil No. 1 fires cylinders 1 and 4. Coil No. 2 fires cylinders Nos. 2 and 3.
if you mix up the 4 wires HV it will not run
mixing 1 to 4 works, but the wires are too short
mixing 2 and 3 works, same deal
mixing 1 to 2 or 4 to 3 is FAIL
see why> firing order wrong. PCM does the older not you.
if you wreck the order it will not run.
4COPS can mix all you what so there I did both engines

the cam belt is a 60,000 service, if skipped the DOHC blows up.
piston hits valves and boom valves bent and heads a train wreck from H3LL. and compression not 200psi but 5. BOOM.
never skip cam belt service, did you?
did you drive it till it DIED? not told
or just doing normal service now.?
history matters, next time ask for help before going broke on part not needed
btw the quad spark pack the best ones are marked clear as day
1,2,3,4 at HV terms
and engine is
cambelt 1,2,3,4 , trans.
to test for spark only unplug 1 plug or get wrong results on 4 in 1 pack.
the 4cop spark coils test them any why you want even all at once.

always assume interference or go broke fast
and some engine heads milled become interference and you can't know that standing far away 3 feet.
there are some DOHC engines that are free running
means cam stalled and crank spins and zero damage

if you bought a dead car(my act for years) we check compression first not buy tons of parts praying for a dead engine to run.
even engines on a pallet used. I test them.
time the cam per the service manual
if you'd tell what engine was there I'd post it.



note the better coil pack
to test # 2 or 3 both spark plugs 2 and 3 must be connected
and shells ground to the engine block or both fail.
and both spark wires can not be open, mag wire is best.
this is called wasted spark and is only 2 coils if you look closer

Anti- theft

Primary voltage to several systems, including the ignition coil, dark green wire with orange tracer. That voltage comes from asd relay. There is a fuse for asd relay. To check for voltage the engine has to cranking. The control side of asd relay, the computer has to ground it before it will energize. Did you check wiring circuits for cam and crank sensor connectors before replacing sensors? Are there any applicable trouble codes?
Are you ok with testing wiring circuits?

If its not getting spark the choices are limited. You already replaced the coil pack so whats left is ignition module, crank sensor, knock sensor, cam sensor, or the timing was not was not set properly when putting it back together. Any one of those would create a no spark situation.

I have a problem with a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7. Looking for some help or suggestions.

Problem: I only have a spark from the #2 coil.

Background:

Vehicle purchased from an Auction and would not start. The vehicle would only backfire. When I removed the valve covers I found that one of the rocker arms had popped out. I replace the heads with heads from a 2001 Intrepid 2.7. I used the cams, primary and secondary timing chains from the 1999 heads. Not sure if I used the original primary (left) cam sprocket from the 1999 or one I purchased in a kit from a Dodge dealership. I tried to use the new primary timing chain but it was not the same. The replacement heads were surfaced and a new head gasket was used. When I tried to start the vehicle it had no spark. The vehicle had set at several locations and parts may have been removed or changed.

Solutions Tried:

I tried 4 ASD relays with no effect. I then tested all 4 on a 2002 Intrepid 2.7 that runs and all worked. I then discovered that the Crank PS has missing. I replaced the Crank PS with one from a 2002 Intrepid 2.7 with no effect. I then replaced the Crank PS with a Crank PS from a 1999 Intrepid 2.7 and got a spark at the #2 coil only. I then replaced the PCM and TCM from the same 1999 Intrepid I got the Crank PS from and still only have spark from #2 coil. I then changed the Cam PS, still spark only from #2 coil. I have tried several coil packs on connector #2 and all have spark. Each coil pack that sparks on #2 will not spark on any other connector. Spark from #2 coil is weak.

I then replaced the wire harness from the PCM to the coils and fuel injectors and still only have spark from the #2 coil. What am I missing? Any suggestions, advice or related information will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Keith P. Richardson

[email protected]

404-606-0728

If you have replace new cam sensor with no sparks and the coil are good putting out 12 volt, my guess would be the computer it self faulty. cam sensor sense the cam turning and send info to computer telling computer to disperse the charge from the coil pack to the plugs assuming relay, cam sensor, coil, plugs, and wires are good. make sure the cam sensor is put in properly and position.

YOU NEED TO CHECK DARK GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT IGNITION COIL WHEN CRANKING ENGINE FOR POWER..IF NO POWER,SHUTDOWN RELAY IS NOT BEING ENERGIZED..THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON END OF CYLINDER HEAD..ENGINE CONTROLLER NEEDS CAM AND CRANK SIGNALS TO ENERGIZE THE SHUTDOWN RELAY..UNPLUG CRANK SENSOR AND CHECK VOLTAGE ON ORANGE WIRE..SHOULD HAVE APPROX 8V..IF NOT..UNPLUG CAM SENSOR AND SEE IF 8V SUPPLY RETURNS..IF NO POWER TRY UNPLUGGING VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOCATED IN TRANS HOUSING WHERE RIGHT SIDE AXLE COMES OUT OF TRANS..IF 8V RETURNS..THE SPEED SENSOR IS SHORTED INTERNALLY..THESE 3 SENSORS SHARE THE SAME 8V SUPPLY CIRCUIT..WITH SPEED SENSOR UNPLUGGED,PLUG CRANK SENSOR BACK IN AND TRY TO START ENGINE..HAVE SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM AT WORK RECENTLY

check timing belt

Might as well try the idle air control valve, or the mass air flow sensor. Sounds like you've almost hit them all!

you have a bad crankshaft sensor. replace the crank sensor.

dodges and gm's are known for this problem.