1998 2.0L DOHC neon, water pump went which caused timing belt to blow out. Found TDC on #1 cyclinder, lined up marks, car runs very rough. When we found TDC the spark plug was saturated with oil. can this be cause of running rough

How to get my timing back correct after replacing timing belt.

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CarGurusJan 18, 2015 - I have went in and replaced the water pump and the timing belt. ...Align the crankshaft sprocket (10) with the TDC mark (9) on the oil pump cover. 2. ...and then just shut off and won't restart? try unplugging the cam ... The two timingmarks for the camshafts are lined up and the crank is lined up with TDC.

Timing Belt Change - Miata.net

fuel pumps ( diesel pumps) that are belt driven are spring loaded for the timing
you cannot remove and replace the belt as the pulley will move 1 tooth put of time
check where the timing mark on the pump pulley is when the crank and camshaft marks are on the spot and readjust to the mark where it should be

This`is an interference fit motor, the timing has to be dead on. Its possible that you are out 180 degrees on the crankshaft. The motor has to be on the compression stroke... Line your marks back up, take off the belt, and turn the motor/crankshaft ONE complete revolution (by hand preferably) back to your timing mark on the motor and crankshaft. Line up the two camshaft marks with the arrows pointing UP, and go from there. Hope this helps.

I cant find a picture to show you, but if you rotate the engine until #1 is at TDC there should be a timing mark on the crankshaft gear that lines up with a pointer and the cams should have marks that line up also. Most of the time there is a molded line in the cam gear and it lines up with a molded slot in the plate behind the gear at the 12 O'clock position.

The engine is a free running type so bent valves should not be the problem. Recheck the timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft. If you are one timing belt tooth off, the engine could run but run rough. With the number 1 cylinder piston at top dead center, the camshaft marks should be lined up with their "TDC" marks and the crankshaft mark should be at 0 deg.

If the distributor was removed during the belt replacement, make sure it is in time with the crankshaft timing mark. When the No. 1 cylinder piston is at top dead center, the crankshaft timing mark should be on 0 deg. and the distributor rotor should be pointing to the number 1 terminal on the distributor cap at the same time.

Double check and make sure you are set to #1 TDC then verify you have the timing marks aligned correctly. This happens a lot when the timing marks slip and the vehicle is 90 to 100 degrees out of time. If it were 180 degrees out it would start but run very rough. If you replaced the timing belt because it broke while the engine was running do a compression check or connect a small compressor to a line you can screw into the the spark plug holes and see if you have any compression or in 2 or more cylinders have no compression. If this test is true your valves are bent and you will have to have the head rebuilt.

Remove top timing cove, turn crankshaft be hand (using tools) to TDC, and check timing mark on camshaft, here's diagrams for camshaft timing mark's 2.0L SOHC and DOHC, hope this was very helpful.

There is no manual adjustment for timing, this is done digitally by using a VAG 1552 scan tool or equivalent. Now if timing mark is all you need just to serve your curiosity then there are a couple.

Set engine to TDC for cylinder #1 by turning the crankshaft until timing mark on flywheel or torque converter aligns with marks on the transmission case.

• Manual Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with notch at inspection hole on manual trans.

• Automatic Transmission

Confirm that engine is set to TDC for cyl #1 by checking that the timing mark on torque coverter lines up with the edge of the inspection hole on automatic transmission.

Remove upper toothed belt cover. Once removed, you will see the letters O.T. with an arrow on the upper rear toothed belt guard. Check that mark on camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on toothed belt guard. This brings camshaft to TDC for cyl. #1.

It is unlikely that a belt has skipped a cog, but if that happens your engine will run very rough or not operate at all. You might have other issue in the air metering sensors (MAF) which doesn't take account of temperature. That means whether the engine is cold or holt it will always run rough and definitely activate an MIL.

Try this:

i would double check my timing. make sure crank is tdc and cam mark is lined up. if so double check any connectors that you might have disconected