Question about 1999 Mercury Villager

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How do I replace the door lock actuator on a 1999 Mercury Villager w/o damaging the connecting rods and door track?

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gerry bissi

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SECTION 501-14A: Handles, Locks, Latches and Mechanisms 1999 Villager Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Actuator —Power Door Lock, Front Removal

  1. Remove the front door latch. For additional information, refer to Latch—Front Door .
  1. Remove the power door lock actuator from the front door latch.
    1. Release the locking tabs.
    1. Remove the power door lock actuator from the front door latch.
How do I replace the door lock actuator on a 1999 - 583b623.gif
go here too

Posted on Oct 03, 2009


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  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: Chevy Tahoe

i will try to help. the bottom of panel should just pry apart with flathead. there are screws in the door "puller". remove small panel at door mirror, one screw there. the power window switch will clip in on one end. pry up carefully on one end and look underneath it to see connection. slides in on one end and clips in on other. one screw under there. the plastic cover behind inside handle release should be pryed carefully to expose. trick is to be careful and take your time. hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008



  • 508 Answers

SOURCE: inside door handle rod on a Jeep Wrangler 1999

You will need to remove the door panel. Most use a special clip to attach it to the lock mechanisim. Look in the bottom of the door to find the clip that fell off. If you can't find it you will have to go to chrysler to get another clip or try a wrecking yard and they will probably just give it to you.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

gerry bissi

  • 4388 Answers

SOURCE: I want to make my 1999 Mercury Villager Sport into

the middle seats come out easily. There are 2 handles you have to lift up on each of the bucket seats, they are in the front of the seat down by the seat tracks. After you lift them, tilt the seat upward in the front and rotate them backward. Then lift out of the hooks. Each seat is held down by 4 hoks.

The 3rd row seat is not designed to come out xcept by a technician. It does slide forward all the way up to the front seat. It has a sliding seat track.
First, lift the T handle under the seat cushion on the left front side of the seat. This will allow you to lift the seat bottom up all the way to lcok in the full up position.
Then, lift the lever on the same side of the seat and slide the seat forward. It will stop in 4 places.
Rear -Rear
6 inches forward of that.
another two ft to the second row seating position
full frward against the front seats.

Pleae rate as fixya if this helps.

c4253aa.gif Seat —Third Row Bench Removal
sxv~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Removal of the third row bench seat requires more than one technician.

  1. Remove the second row seats. For additional information, refer to Seat—Second Row .
  1. Remove the floor mats.
  1. Lock the seat cushion in the upright position.
    1. Lift the handle to release the cushion.
    1. Lock the seat cushion in the upright position.
  1. Move the third row bench seat to the second row position.
    • Lift the seat track release handle.
  1. Remove the two bolt covers.
  1. Remove the two seat track front bolts.
  1. Remove the four seat track rear bolts.
    1. Position the rear seat cushion floor cover aside.
    1. Remove the four seat track rear bolts.
  1. Remove the third row bench seat.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009


  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 astro van door lock actuator wont work

Even though it is new there is always a chance the actuator may not be good; I had the same symptoms with 3 of my actuators and had to replace them all about 3 years ago.

Posted on May 10, 2009


George Fischer

  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: 94 astro van drivers door will not unlock with key

are you sure its locked? could be the latch is frozen. try pulling the door handle open, and pounding on the door from the inside

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

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1999 mercury villager fuse for door locks where is the one for the back door

One circuit breaker for all door locks, your lock actuator is probably bad . Would need to pull door panel off to replace it , test it first. Check for B+ power at the switch !

Feb 25, 2017 | Mercury Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Door lock actuator

This solution is for a 1998 Ford Taurus door lock actuator replacement. In this solution, I'm working on the front passenger door of a 1998 Ford Taurus SE (4 door). I installed a new door lock actuator from Advance Auto Parts, it's a Dorman 746-145, about $50 list, my cost was about $30 with a coupon I got by googling Advance Auto Parts Coupons, and applying a code at checkout.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the interior door panel: Unscrew and remove the push/pull thing used to lock and unlock the door manually. Remove the 2 Phillips screws on the sides of the interior door panel. Remove the Phillips screw that's in the bottom of the interior door handle. Use a large screwdriver to pry the lower right hand corner of the interior door panel out, you may or may not be able to pop the clips free, work your way across the bottom and up the sides, pulling or prying or both. Pop it free all the way around, the top center clip can be a bear to get free. Make sure all the other sides are free, then get the top center clip. I think I pulled the top right of the panel to the top right, over the top of the door lock rod/button, and then it just popped free.

Remove the wiring harnesses for the electric window and electric lock buttons inside the panel you just removed: Push the button in, and pull the ring extending around the button for something to grip to pull it free. Rocking it a little seems to help. I used channel locks once a few months ago, but be careful.

The panel's free, set it aside where it won't get broken. You can leave the speaker in.

Pull the plastic water barrier off of the right half of the interior of the door. Take some tape or something and tie it down on the left side of the interior of the door, you'll be working on the right side only.

Take a look into the bottom right corner inside the door with a small flashlight. There's the actuator. Take note of the new part, and the old part, and the way the rod's connected to the actuator.

Note the Position of the actuator in the door, look at the new actuator, the wiring release clip is on the right (towards the steering wheel if the door were closed).
You will NOT need to remove the rivet that's in the actuator bracket. It just holds 2 pieces of the bracket together.

Remove the two 11mm bolts at bottom right that hold the actuator bracket and window track/rail in place.

Remove the 3 torx screws on the edge or end of the door, that hold the door lock in place. Don't worry, everything won't fall apart, you'll be fine.... :)

Now you'll need to find out how much slack is in the wiring to the bottom of the actuator. Do not pull on the wires. But you do have to take off the wiring clip from the bottom of the actuator. If the wires are long enough, push the window track/rail out of the way and swivel the bottom of the actuator towards you a little for easier access. I used a small flat blade screw driver to hold the locking clip out, as I pulled the wiring clip off the bottom of the actuator. Good Luck......

You won't be able to see much, so take a good look at the new actuator before trying to take the wiring clip off the old actuator.

Now to get the Actuator out of the door: Carefully push/move the window rail/track out of the way, moving it as little as possible, don't kink it, while pulling the actuator towards you. The actuator connecting rod will swivel where it connects above (at the lock), and allow you to move it.

Once the Actuator is clear of the window rail/track, take a screw driver and push the lock itself in as far as is necessary about an inch or so), while holding the actuator with the other hand, continue holding the lock in with the screw driver, while maneuvering the actuator to free the connecting rod from the lock assembly above. A half twist/turn is about all it takes to free it. Note how to reassemble it before disassembling it.

The actuator with the connecting rod on it is out of the car door.

Now for the hard part, use pliers or screwdrivers or whatever it takes, and remove the old clip that holds that connecting rod to the old actuator.

Hold that connecting rod up to the new one.

The new one I got was a little bit longer than the old one, and would not work until after I ground about 1/16th of an inch off the end of it. Making it identical to the old part. I recommend using the old connecting rod. Easier.

You'll still have to use the new clip on the connecting rod either way. With O-rings. I used a new o-ring on the top side, and an old o-ring on the bottom, because the old o-ring stayed in place by itself, and the new one was larger, and fell off the connecting rod. Bend the old o-ring and make sure it's not full of cracks before re-using it. Ace Hardware probably isn't too far away....

Before attaching the locking clip to the connecting rod, put the rod into the new actuator. There should only be enough extra room for the o-ring. If there's more room than that, you won't be able to get the locking clip on. Meaning, you'll have to use the old connecting rod, or grind some off the new rod. Put the old connecting rod in the actuator, and the new connecting rod in the actuator, if the space is the same or less for the new connecting rod, you're ok. If it's just a little bit more, it probably will not work.

Once you're certain your connecting rod is the proper length, assemble the connecting rod of your choice to the new actuator using 2 O-rings and the new connecting clip that came with your new actuator. This will not be easy. I had to get Fay to help me. she complained her fingers were getting pinched, so I had her hammer it on, and yes, my fingers got pinched. But no blood. Just pinched. Maybe I should have held it with pliers instead of my fingers....

I used I think it was a 3/8" line wrench (probably the smaller the better, this was the smallest I had), over the top the the new clip, and hammered it onto the new actuator. By hammered, I mean barely tapped on the wrench with a hammer, while the line wrench was perfectly positioned on the clip - to drive it onto the actuator. Stop when it's on, or you may break something.

After it's on, turn the clip a little (say half a turn), if it stays on, leave it.

The rest is pretty obvious. Pry the bracket off the old actuator (I used a flat blade screwdriver), noting it's position on the old actuator, and put it on the new one.

Push the lock in with a screwdriver (thru side of door), just enough to attach the rod on the actuator back into its place on the lock assembly.

Putting it back together is easy. Just don't forget any of the bolts that were removed. Start the 3 bolts that hold the lock. Start the two 11mm bolts that hold the actuator bracket and window rail/track. Tighten those 5 bolts. Hit what you can with a spray can of white lithium grease (Walmart has it next to the carb cleaner). Hit the lock, linkage, I even hit the window track. But not the wires. Work the manual lock button up and down making sure everything works freely.

I siliconed the water cover back onto the door (silicone was handy), then reattached the door panel. Connect the window and lock wiring first, and don't forget the 3 screws that hold the door panel on. And attach the door lock button that screws onto the top of the that door lock rod last.....

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Test the lock actuator.

Mine was binding at the top, where the manual lock button goes thru the hole in the door panel. I probably should have bought new skinnier lock buttons, but I had the grinder out anyway, so yes, that plastic/rubber button got ground down. All the way around. Works fine now. This was probably the cause of that actuator going out.

Good Luck to You with Yours.... :)

Aug 22, 2013 | 2006 Acura TL

1 Answer

How to replace an outside lock on sliding door of 2000 Mercury Villager

You have to take the Inside Panel off, disconnect the Rods and then remove the Clip.


TEST BEFORE YOU PUT the panel back on

Apr 12, 2013 | 2000 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Electric door locks malfuntioning on 1998 Mercury Villager GS

if they are self locking, there is a TSB at our site. However, it is likely one of the door lock actuators ($125) malfunctioning. usually the driver door. but try the TSB stuff first. will sell part at discount.


Jan 14, 2011 | 1998 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Rear o/s passenger door locked and will not open on my freelander 1999

need to take off door panel to access the door lock-- possible lock actuator rod damaged or most likely the rod clip broke or disconnected and need to replace or reconnect

Feb 14, 2010 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

The drivers door will not lock automatically when the engine is engaged or when I use the keyless lock/unlock on my keychain

if actuator is making noise/clicking possible locking rod clip disconnected or damaged if no noise check power and in between door by hinge for possible damaged wires if good --need to remove door panel and repair or replace lock rod connections or test and repair/replace actuator

Oct 23, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

1997 villager just started locking the doors automatically

This is a common issue. You have poorly adjusted inside lock rods, or water in your door lock actuator connector behind the door trim panel , or you need to cut one wire in the driver door wire harness to defeat the autolock function. Go here for info on what to do. See files and also links for this issue.

Jun 05, 2009 | 1997 Mercury Villager

2 Answers

My van's doors keep locking by themselves

either you have water in the door lock actuator connecotrs in one of the doors. or a misadjusted lock rod for the inside lock switch or a wire shorting out in one of the doors (for the lock actuator).
This was an issue for earlier models through 1997. If no luck with those, you will have to cut a wire in the driver door lock actuator harness that will eliminate you being able to lock or unlock all doors at once with the key in hte driver door lock cylindr.

go here for Villager help.

Look in the photos and files and ask questions via email. we will help you.

May 04, 2009 | 2000 Mercury Villager

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