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Yez, yr miz could be the coil or a plugwire or a bad sparkplug. Pull the spark plug out and look at it. Is it fouled, all carboned up? Try a new spark plug (if plugs are pretty old, or worn with a rounded electrode, buy a new set.) Start with the cheapest fixes first. If plugs don't help, swap that plugwire with another and see if the misfire follows that cable wire-u know that's a bad plug wire. Same with the coil-swap it for another on the coilpack and see if misfire follows the suspect coil-that's a bad coil. Good luck.
Tools you will need before you start1. 1/4" ratchet2. 1/4" extention3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive4. small flat bladed screwdriver5. 3/8" ratchet6. 3/8" long extention7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air9. long needle nose pliers10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long11. wire coat hanger12. neverseez lubricantProcedure1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block. These blocks are individual coils for each sparkplug.4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it 7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the autoparts store.15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt17. replace the electrical clip.18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done
If you replaced the distributor cap then there is a high possibility that you put the wires in the wrong firing order on cap.
If all you did was replaced the plugs, then I would pull each one out and recheck the Gap sizes with a feeler gauge. Also check to see if the spark/coil plug wires are touching metal or each other, which can cause the spark to arc out of the wire and never get to the spark plug. If I suspect an arc and do not see a physical problem, I wait until nighttime and look under the hood while engine is running...they stick out like a sore thumb. Also make sure that you did not put the wrong plugwire to the wrong spark plug.
When you change your plugs, you should also replace wires, cap and rotor.
1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine
2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover
3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block. These blocks are individual coils for each spark plug.
4. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.
5. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine. Use the needle pliers to firmly grasp the plastic screw and pull straight up to remove it
6. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block
7. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.
8. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.
9. Use a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extension to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.
10. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adjust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.
11. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting antisiez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes
12. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extension, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needle nose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coat hanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the spark plug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store.
13. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.
14. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt
15. replace the electrical clip.
16. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.
17. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to re-tighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail
18. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done.
That aluminum collar will come off with the boot. Go ahead and grasp the spark plug boot and twist the boot left and right and then continuing to do that pull towards you and it will come off for you. Hope this helps
do you know if its getting spark and fuel you can take one of the plugs out with it still hooked up to the plug wire set the plug electrode on metal and have someone crank the car over see if you can see any spark.if so take the fuel line loose take off the filter have someone turn it over see if fuel comes out if not bad fuel pump
If you're talking about the spark plugs, it's pretty easy. Follow the spark plug wires back to the cylinder heads. This will have a rubber cap on it, pull that off and you'll see a little metal stem. Use a 5/8" Sparkplug socket (deep well with a little rubber insert to protect the plug) and unthread it. After this, coat it with some spark plug thread sealer (it's in a little pack sold at the front counter of an auto parts store like Autozone). Put your new plugs in and tighten them down. Don't tighten too much, you just want them to be snug. Hope this helps.
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