Okay I got a 1998 GMC with the 6.5 turbo diesel I was going to my daughter's house got about a half mile from there and then it was like the turbo kicked in then released and kicked in again and released kicked in a third time died and it hasn't started since I figured it was to lift pump pushing the fuel up so I changed it nope change the filter housing with the little heater in the bottom of it on the back of the motor that didn't help. Shot some starter fluid it fired not a good idea because I bent the starter bolts I had to change them. Its cold now and I put a salamander in the front to help warm it up. Still not starting. And yes I checked the fuel level in the tank and I added 5 gallons just for GP.
I'm stumped what am I looking for?
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Re:
Based on the symptoms you've described, it sounds like there may be an issue with the fuel delivery system. Here are a few things to check:
Check the fuel pressure using a gauge. The pressure should be around 60 PSI when the key is on and around 30 PSI when cranking. If the pressure is low, check the fuel filter and make sure it's not clogged.
Check for any air leaks in the fuel system. The 6.5 diesel engine is known for having issues with the fuel lines and hoses, so make sure there are no leaks or cracks.
Check the injectors. Make sure they're clean and functioning properly. You can use a diesel injector tester to check for proper spray pattern and volume.
Check the injector pump. Make sure it's working properly and that the timing is correct.
Check the cam sensor, crankshaft sensor, and the PCM. These sensors can also cause issues with the engine starting.
It could also be an issue with the engine's computers and wiring, so you may want to consider taking it to a qualified mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem.
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modern diesels have a service interval of 12 months or 20k miles
I never believe that an engine oil will last that long as all of the additives get neutralized making the oil useless
Stick to 10k miles or less in extreme conditions and at least every 6 months
Heavy truck diesels are capable of going 30k miles but they don't stop running where as smaller car diesels and light truck suffer constany stops and starts there by cooling down and heating up which is not a good operating environment for an engine
oil and filters are a cheap maintenance mechanic so more often is better than less often
TURN OFF RADIO FIRST TO KEEP FROM LOCKING IT OUT WHEN YOU DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. SOUND LIKE WEAK BATTERY OR STARTER MAKE SURE BATTERY CABLES CLEAN AND TIGHT.IF BATTERY GOOD REPLACE BATTERY CABLES.CHECK STARTER MAKE SURE STARTER SOLENOID AND STARTER OKAY.YOU CAN HAVE THEM TESTED AT AUTO PARTS STORE OR USE A REMOTE SWITCH.REMOVE STARTER FROM VECHICLE USE JUMPER CABLES.HOOK NEGATIVE GROUND CABLE TO BATTERY NEGATIVE THEN GROUND STARTER BODY WITH NEGATIVE BATTERY JUMPER CABLES HOOK POSITIVE JUMPER CABLE TO BATTERY POSITIVE AND STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL.THEN HOOK REMOTE SWITCH TO STARTER STARTER SWITCH AND OTHER REMOTE WIRE TO STARTER POSITIVE TERMINAL.PRESS REMOTE STARTER WILL SPIN IF GOOD.MAKE SURE INJECTION PUMP STATIC AND DYNAMIC IS TIMING CORRECT BEFORE STARTING TRUCK.
THE WARRANTY PERIOD IS 11YEARS OR 120K MILES FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE.
REMOVE THE OIL FILLER TUBE. THERE IS 3 BOLTS HIDDEN BEHIND IT. TRY NOT TO DROP THEM, THE TIMING COVER WILL HAVE TO BE REMOVED IF YOU DO.
THE INTAKE MANIFOLD HAS TO BE REMOVED, THIS MAY REQUIRE YOU TO REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING TOO.
NOT THE CROSSOVER.
NEXT REMOVE THE FUEL INJECTOR LINES, TRY NOT TO BEND THEM OUT OF THE WAY TOO FAR AS IT WILL MAKE INSTALLATION EASIER AND THE LINES WON'T GET CROSSED.
REMOVE THE FUEL LINES FROM THE INJECTOR PUMP.
REMOVE THE PUMP.
AFTER THE INSTALLATION OF THE NEW PUMP YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO SET THE TIMING WITH A SCANNER. YOU MAY HAVE TO GO TO A DEALERSHIP OR A DIESEL REPAIR SHOP TO HAVE THIS DONE.
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