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Cars & Trucks Master
I see you say 'calcification' Judy, so a white residue from a leaking battery? Scrape the white scale off with the point of a small paring knife. Then you can use a green pot scourer to remove the rest and make the metal shiny. An old typewriter eraser also works well, the sandy, gritty type, or even an emery board for the nails. Then clean with a damp cloth and then rub or with a little Vaseline. This will stop further corrosion. Then put the batteries in and try again.
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disable each cylinder one at a time. If the noise goes away it is likely a rod knock and is terminal. A new engine is the only way to resolve. If it does not go away than it is possible it is a wrist pin, also terminal, or in the valve train.
if you think it could be in the valve train try this. Add 1/2 can of seafoam motor tune to the oil. Start the car and let it run. If the noise goes away it was a valve train issue. change the oil and make sure you are keeping up with the proper maintenance for you vehicle.
if the noise continues than i would seek a professional ear to listen to eat and give an opinion.
what engine, you need to know that to fix all car engines, many options. 4.7L V8? is common state side.
Gas or Diesel?????
LC P1226, Autozoned, your scan tool or off dash warning disp.?
common hit? Fuel system leak detected large leak? on some TOYs
i keep googling and finding hit after hit for diesel
are you not in USA?> just a clue here. cant fix cars blind, country is, engine is? what.?
P1 means factory code, so dont read non toy posts. rule 1.......
P means power train,
2003 has throttle by wire , system. TBW. 4.7L has it USA!
The security light comes on or stays on when the module does not "see" the correct chip in the key. Normally the system only works when you crank the engine, not after it is running. So if the light is coming on after the engine is running, and the engine also quits, I would look for an electrical problem with the key switch or the computer.
and transmission in this cars drive train are fully
electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train
Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer
stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions
to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant teperature sensor and MAF
sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to
read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with
a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform
the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s)
DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL THE DIAGNOSIS & TESTING IS
With some makes and models, there is an auto down module for express down, it can be part of the driver door master switch.
With express down, when the window gets to the bottom, the module may sense over current, then interrupts voltage.
On some vehicles that had problems with window motor, I have touched power window circuit breaker, this one was metal, hot as it could be. The circuit breaker will trip when it gets hot and none of your powers will work. Once the circuit breaker cools down, it may reset and the windows will work again.
If you bench tested the new window motor on the bench, with jumper wires to battery, It will probably run as long as the jumper wires are hooked up, nothing to shut the voltage off. Just my opinion.
windshiled wipers will work on the intermittet stage for about 10-15 minutes then automatically goes to regular speed and will not shut off. When stop vehicle and shut engine off and let sit 15-20 minutes wipers will shut off. When needed again same thing will happen This is on a 2003 Chevrolwt express Va