EEC 30 Amp fuse 2 Blows. Reading a direct short to ground from any positive I have checked
Though the vehicle has sat up a long time, it has always started right up. It was running just fine except a little miss to the heart beat just before I performed the following maintenance:
Now the EEC 30 Amp ,fuse 2, blows each time the engine turns over. It may be blowing as soon as the key is turned on? Just thought of that! I cleaned the throttle body, did not get any connectors wet. While checking vacuum hoses, from the passenger side, found the purge valve ,that I did not know existed ,under the intake. The electrical was connected but the plastic vacuum tips were broken off and the vacuum hose was connected directly from the canister to the throttle body. Installed a new one in between. We fiddled with the electrical connector a bit to get it to the driver's side to reconnect it there. The fuel filter was difficult to remove & extremely dirty. The spark plugs wires were hard to get off & on. Did not change them. The plugs were mostly black, rich, put new ones in. The battery was low because it had been sitting. Put the battery charger on 2 amps, trickle charge, slow. Left it for a day & one half to two days, forgot all about it! The battery was very hot. Took the charger off. Then In about 30 min noticed the battery was still hot. The engine would not turn over. Thought the battery was just dead or I had burned it up. Connected a jump box directly to the bat cables with no battery. Turned over normally but would not start. Thought to be a fuel issue because we had just taken the fuel pump fuse out while we changed the fuel filter, then replaced the fuse. Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body. It made no difference. Would not start. Saw no spark from the plug wire test. The jump box ran down faster than normal. Found fuse 2 ,30Amp EEC fuse blown, replaced it. Jumped it with another car; turned over but would not start. Found bad #2 30 amp fuse blown again! Using an ohmmeter, there was continuity between the positive & negative battery cables. A direct short, right? Also there is continuity on any other positive lead, that I checked, to ground any metal on the car
Hoping to isolate the short, I removed each fuse from the distribution box, one at a time, checked continuity from red battery cable to ground. Then I replaced the fuse, before checking for continuity with the next one removed. Next I removed all of the fuses and diodes at once. It made no difference! There was always continuity. Disconnected coil electric connection, no change. Disconnected the computer no change! Still reading a direct short. How do I go about isolating and fixing this problem I caused?
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Re: EEC 30 Amp fuse 2 Blows. Reading a direct short to...
Probably need an expert on wiring harness ..not a dealer.. just an old school independent shop. Car been sitting too long ..ign parts old n worn also. Buy a haynes manual at parts or library sec629 has chilton repair volumes.
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that's a heavy short. What are the auxiliaries? could be the cigarette lighters or other optional devices. There is likey a major bad part or direct shorting wire (cut insulation) (Loose wire touching ground). Look first at the cover or in the manual to point you in the right direction. if none then look near and behind every cigarette lighter connection in the vehicle. Just last week I stacked some of these up wondering why I had them since I have never had a short take one out....
Have a short. This procedure may help out. Need test light and volt meter.
1. Disconnect C104 and see if the Red (RD) wire out of the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) (pin 12 and/or 24) is shorting to ground, to verify which side of the connector the circuit is shorted.
2. If the RD wire no longer indicates a short to ground after disconnecting C104, inspect the engine harness feeding the injectors, Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid and Canister Purge (CANP) solenoid for chafing against bare metal on top of the engine.
3. If the RD wire still indicates a short to ground after disconnecting the C104 connector, inspect the harness to the secondary air injection solenoids, EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid, Mass Air Flow (MAF) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for a short to ground. INFO Tip C104 is a 42-terminal connector located at the rear passenger side of the engine, near the A/C accumulator.
Underhood fuse block swap out relay #7 thats the ECM relay. Ground Circuits Using a DVOM, touch negative voltmeter lead to a good ground. Touch positive voltmeter lead to each ground terminal. With vehicle running, voltmeter should indicate less than one volt. If reading is greater than one volt, check for open, corrosion and loose connection on ground lead. See ECM GROUND LOCATION table for ECM ground location. Page 1 of 1 SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - 2.6L EFI -1994 Isuzu Rodeo
Hello Kilwillie. Anytime a fuse blows the circuit is being overloaded. There are a couple of fuses that control your blower. The 30 amp fuse link and a 10 amp fuse for the blower motor relay. If it is the 30 amp the blower system needs to be checked for the cause of the short. Positive battery voltage goes to the blower motor and the control switch routes the ground circuit through a resistor to give various fan speeds. Most common will be the blower motor itself having worn motor shaft bushings or an internal motor short. This will require motor replacement. Also have seen where a mouse has built a nest and it gets caught in the blower fan causing it to overlooad. If the wire after the blower was shorting to ground the blower would come on high speed and not be your problem
And if the fuse is the 10 amp it appears the fault may lie in the blower motor relay. I believe that would be the only logical solution according to the wiring diagram.
It sounds like a bad ignition switch or something is grounding out.Try to isolate the problem to key positions.See if the fuse blows when you turn the key to ACC(when your dash lights come on without starting)If the fuse does not blow then when you go to start it and it blows it could be one of many problems,the more common ones could be ignition switch,wiring,starter relay,starter soleniod,or perhaps the starter itself is shorting out,this can sometimes happen when a starter goes bad.
sounds like you have a bad relay that is shorted out or you might have a bad fuel injector shorting out fossible fuel pump wireing short do some probing aroun with the multi meter try to find direct short , use the process of elimination .
now let me see does your truck start up and run then fuse blows? is the fuse the correct amperage check your owners manual to see how long does it run before blowing fuse ? when its running is it running smooth while is running?