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EEC 30 Amp fuse 2 Blows. Reading a direct short to ground from any positive I have checked

Though the vehicle has sat up a long time, it has always started right up. It was running just fine except a little miss to the heart beat just before I performed the following maintenance: Now the EEC 30 Amp ,fuse 2, blows each time the engine turns over. It may be blowing as soon as the key is turned on? Just thought of that! I cleaned the throttle body, did not get any connectors wet. While checking vacuum hoses, from the passenger side, found the purge valve ,that I did not know existed ,under the intake. The electrical was connected but the plastic vacuum tips were broken off and the vacuum hose was connected directly from the canister to the throttle body. Installed a new one in between. We fiddled with the electrical connector a bit to get it to the driver's side to reconnect it there. The fuel filter was difficult to remove & extremely dirty. The spark plugs wires were hard to get off & on. Did not change them. The plugs were mostly black, rich, put new ones in. The battery was low because it had been sitting. Put the battery charger on 2 amps, trickle charge, slow. Left it for a day & one half to two days, forgot all about it! The battery was very hot. Took the charger off. Then In about 30 min noticed the battery was still hot. The engine would not turn over. Thought the battery was just dead or I had burned it up. Connected a jump box directly to the bat cables with no battery. Turned over normally but would not start. Thought to be a fuel issue because we had just taken the fuel pump fuse out while we changed the fuel filter, then replaced the fuse. Sprayed starter fluid in throttle body. It made no difference. Would not start. Saw no spark from the plug wire test. The jump box ran down faster than normal. Found fuse 2 ,30Amp EEC fuse blown, replaced it. Jumped it with another car; turned over but would not start. Found bad #2 30 amp fuse blown again! Using an ohmmeter, there was continuity between the positive & negative battery cables. A direct short, right? Also there is continuity on any other positive lead, that I checked, to ground any metal on the car Hoping to isolate the short, I removed each fuse from the distribution box, one at a time, checked continuity from red battery cable to ground. Then I replaced the fuse, before checking for continuity with the next one removed. Next I removed all of the fuses and diodes at once. It made no difference! There was always continuity. Disconnected coil electric connection, no change. Disconnected the computer no change! Still reading a direct short. How do I go about isolating and fixing this problem I caused?

Posted by Brent Schreiber on


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Arnie Burke

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Probably need an expert on wiring harness ..not a dealer.. just an old school independent shop. Car been sitting too long ..ign parts old n worn also. Buy a haynes manual at parts or library sec629 has chilton repair volumes.

Posted on Oct 12, 2021

Testimonial: "Thanks Arnie, you have provided me with a lot of resourceful information & direction in a short paragraph. I will post when I learn what the culprit is!"


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