Question about 2006 Chevrolet HHR

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2.2l auto. Is ECM bad?

Replaced starter. Didn't disconnect battery. Arced big wire to ground. No bad fuses or relays.

Posted by Christine green on

  • Jeff Armer
    Jeff Armer Jan 25, 2021

    So , what's the vehicle not doing ? Starter doesn't engage an spin the engine , no power to anything , what happens when you turn the key on . Does the instrument cluster light up ? will a scan tool communicate with the PCM/ECM ? Your best bet have it towed to a qualified repair shop.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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I would be willing to bet you blew the alt or main fuse. it will be high amp fuse so check again

Posted on Jan 25, 2021

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Simon Atkinson

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 1,960 Answers

I'll need more information to answer this please. Use the Comment button below and I'll see if I can help you.
How does the vehicle behave when you try to start it? Do you get error lights on the dash display? Does it just wind the starter? Does it try to start? Or does it just do nothing at all?
First get the battery tested as 'Shorting' it out like that could have damaged it. The only way to know for sure about the ECM is to plug it into a diagnostic system or an OBD2 scanner to read for any trouble code you might have triggered. A Good auto Electrician should be able to do this for you and some will even come to you to do the job.

Posted on Jan 25, 2021

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Bruce Bracey

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SOURCE: 99 chevy prizm starter problems

Have you verified the engine will turn over by hand? Disconnect the battery, get a socket that will fit the crankshaft bolt and try to turn the engine over. If OK, reconnect your battery cables, use your digital volt meter, place the negative lead of the meter to the positive battery cable post and the positive meter lead to the start solenoid stud at the starter. You should not see more than 0.5 volts. If you see more than that, your positive cable is bad.
Repeat the same step with the negative cable, result should be the same.
Start there and let me know.
Regards,

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

rdpfund

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: 96 S-10 no start, turn key all lights work nothing

bench test starter motor

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

Anonymous

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Chevy 1998 Express 1500 8 cyl Keeps blowing ecm-b fuses

i have a 1998 3500, with the 5.7v-8, and fought electrical problems for eight months now. i believe it is a problem within the chevy van, because a lot of people complain about blown fuses. my fuse was the ecm-b fuse as well, and after cleaning all the grounds and bat. connections, starter connections, and disabling the a/c circuit, on the advice of another poor van owner i replaced the ignition coil. six months so far, and no problems. this might help you as well. mine did not have any visable problems, but he was persistant, so i did it. good luck

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

Anonymous

  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: It is a 1997 Chevy

IF THE MOTOR WILL START WHEN YOU JUMP START, THE BATTERY IN THE BLAZER MUST BE LOW. USE A D.C. VOLTMETER, THE VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY WITHOUT JUMPER CABLES, SHOULD NOT DROP BELOW 9 VOLTS WHEN THE STARTER IS TURNING. THERE IS A CRANK FUSE IN THE INTERIOR FUSEBOX. & A STARTER RELAY UNDER THE HOOD. BUT IF THE STARTER IS TURNING, THOSE ITEMS ARE WORKING. THEY ARE ONLY TO MAKE THE STARTER TURN. GOOD LUCK, DRVOLT.

Posted on Jan 27, 2011

Terry Long

  • 241 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1990 Chevrolet C2500 Pickup. It keeps

if it is the ecm b fuse thats blowing i would try disconnecting your oil sending unit and see if it still blows the fuse.i have seen the sending unit short out internally before and blow the fuse.if it is the ecm 1 fuse it is either a chaffed wire or one of your injectors shorted.

Posted on Feb 09, 2011

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Ecu 1 fault means the engine EMC has a internal fault and needs to be replaced. Most of the time with this code It's not the ecm itself it's usually a wiring problem going to ECM. Their should be two fuses for ECM either next to ECM in plastic covers or by starter or in battery box. So you need to check all your wiring going to and from engine ECM (it's on drivers side of engine) and all your engine, starter, and battery grounds. Most of the time its a bad ground wire so take your time and check all over for any place that wiring could get rubbed through and all your connections are clean and tight. You would also want to disconnect battery negative while your doing this or it will log a bunch of other codes. Make sure all connection are corrosion free clean them as needed.

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4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.

you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)

  1. check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
  2. you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
  3. you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
  4. you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
  5. You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
  6. if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
  7. car still will not jumper crank.
  8. we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
  9. engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
  10. engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
  11. ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
  12. now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
  13. you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
  14. or its bad starter relay.


now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?

the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)

see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.

25513501-qtmfudt4eg5vdkejwfy5ompz-5-0.jpg the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.

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