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A fusible link is a short piece of insulated low-voltage cable within an automotive wiring harness that is designed to protect the harness in applications where a fuse is unsuitable. In an extreme current overload situation, the conductor within the link is melted while the ensuing flame and spark is contained within the link's insulation.
Fusible links are not rated in amps like fuses because each installation is unique and designed to meet specific circuit protection requirements.
The automotive service industry recommends using the same gauge and length as the blown fusible link after the cause of failure is corrected.
Typically, a given harness segment is protected by a fusible link that is four gauge numbers smaller. A 14-gauge wire would be protected by an 18-gauge fusible link. A 6-gauge wire would be protected by a 10-gauge link, and so on. Odd number wire gauge sizes like 19, 15, 13 and 11 are counted when sizing a link. The length of a fusible link should not exceed 9".
In general, a fusible link should never be used to replace an automotive fuse unless authorized by a vehicle factory service bulletin. Likewise, never replace a fusible link with an automotive fuse.
Fusible links are used in most starting circuit applications. For more technical info on fusible links, visit www.sae.org
You can....but the fusible link is there to prevent a catastrophic failure in case of high current draw or dead short. If your fusible link melted, you have other issues to deal with first. If you already know what it was and fixed it, fusible links can be purchased at auto parts stores and installed in the same amount of time you would take to perform the bypass. The couple dollars saved bypassing it are not really worth the fire risk if something should occur.
There should be 2 white wires coming from the alternator. There is a splice where it will go into 1 wire then into the fusible link. If the fusible link is not burned, simply match the gauge wire coming from it. You should never use anything smaller in diameter than 10 gauge wire for the charging system. If you want to replace the fusible link, you can run separate white wires from the alternator to the positive battery post with individual fuses or fusible links. I would recommend each wire have its own Maxi fuse holder with a fuse no less than 60 amps each.
Fusible link should be available at any full service Auto Parts supply available on a roll which you purchase by the inch. Do not replace the fusible link with a piece of #10 stranded wire. Have you checked with your local GM garage for this link?
You say the fusible link is rated @ 20 amp's @ 12 V dc, I would suggest you could put a auto-resetting 20 amp @ 12 V dc circuit breaker in its place but not a wire.
Fusible link rarely "blows". I think you should find the cause before you go much further.
Start by checking all of the fuses and all of the fusible link wires, and you will know a fusible link wire when you find one because they will stretch similar to a rubber band. Fusible link wires are usually located at the fuse/relay junction box in the engine compartment, or at the starter solenoid, or sometimes at the fire-wall. Also check the fuse/relay junction box for any PAL type of fusible links.
Look for a blown fuse,or fusible links to be burned out,these fusible links will bolt onto the starter with the positive cable,I do not know what year it is,but if it is a newer model,there is a fuse on the rail,on passengers side,near the radiator,it will be a flat fuse with two mounting bolts on each side of it,150 amp,or 200 amp,or lower,disconnect the battery before replacing it.
if just the starter fusible link is burned then you should have power to and from the switch, and also power before but not after the fusible link itself. if this is the case you may actually have a bad starter. fusible links burn out for a reason. of course, you'd have to replace the burned fusible link as well.
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