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Shaun Finn Posted on Jul 08, 2020
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Should the cap on the brake fluid reservoir fit tightly 0n a Suzuki swift 2007

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john h

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  • Suzuki Master 29,494 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 23, 2020
john h
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Re- Manual "2007" Suzuki Swift Clutch Fluid Clean & Change.

get a repair manual ---will show tools needed safety-and how to do it
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Hi. We have a 2007 Suzuki swift, the break peddle is really spongy, are you able to adjust the front breaks so the peddle is more responsive, if so how do you do it? Cheers Alastair

While it is possible the brake hydraulic system has air in it, that is usually because there is a brake fluid leak and if the brake fluid level hasn't needed topping up, the cause is probably elsewhere. Spongy pedal feel can be caused by a disc pad seizing so tightly in the carrier the brake disc is flexing. Seized brake caliper slides can also produce a similar thing with some designs. Do not attempt to adjust the brake pedal or linkage as that can cause other potentially very serious problems. Begin by removing the wheels and checking each brake is in good condition and working correctly and you will almost certainly find the cause of the trouble - insufficient or ineffective routine maintenance...
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Please tell me,if anybody knows how to change or top-up power steering fluid in suzuki swift 2005, and where it is located.

lost the operators guide?
open hood
see PS pump there, that thingy that has hoses and belt , the hoses go to steering drive? bingo pump
now look at pump 1 more time, see one more hose
that goes to the reservoir.
we dont have Swifts here this year. so cant print FSM page for one.
swifts have up to 7 engines, world wide, and guess what
the pump fits different on most. as does service.
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Suzuki swift 2007 exclamation light on

parking brake warning or low brake fluid.
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What is the proper way to bleed the brakes on a 2007 Hyundai Entourage?

to do a manual bleed first be sure to keep the reservoir full at all times during this procedure. start with the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder. fill a small glass jar half full of fresh brake fluid. (don't ever use brake fluid that's been sitting around for any period of time with a broken seal on its container brake fluid is a hygroscopic fluid that actually absorbs water from the air even with the cap on the bottle it can be diluted making it less than useful.) find a flexible hose type straw that will fit on the bleeder head of your brake line tightly. step 1 ) stick the hose down into the jar submerging it in the fluid.( this is done so that when pressure is released the system doesn't **** in air which is what you trying to get out to begin with) step 2 ) have someone LIGHTLY( the brake system has pressure built up inside it and can shoot fluid many yards with excessive velocity this can cause damage to painted body parts or may cause bodily harm) press lightly on the brake pedal,step 3 ) you then slowly turn the bleeder screw until you see air or fluid coming out the end of your submerged hose,( the pedal should start to depress). when the pedal is pressed completely down have them hold it there, step 4 ) you then re-tighten the bleeder screw and have them release the pedal slowly.step 5 ) top off the brake fluid reservoir and repeat steps 1 through 5 until there is no longer air coming out, then tighten the bleeder screw down snug and move to the next closest wheel and do all again until all four wheels brakes have been bled. be sure to top off the reservoir when your done. i ope this helps
5helpful
1answer

What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.
1helpful
2answers

Suzuki swift

If you are talking about the brake fluid reservoir, you need to use brake fluid. Not oil.
0helpful
1answer

I bought a brand new 2007 suzuki swift,it has only.2007 SWIFT

i would say its wear and tear,you can kill a clutch in a day if your hard on it,,,or it could take 150,000 miles,,suzuki will classify that as a wear and tear item,,they are really tight with that stuff,
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We changed the disc pads on a 2001 silverado we had to open a brake line.we bleeded the brakes now we cant get the pressure back at the pedal.any suggestions?

When you bleed your brakes you have to start at the wheel longest distance from the master cylinder keep bleeding and putting fresh fluid in until fresh fluid comes out the bleeder screw do this by pumping brakes real slow tighten screw. do this at each wheel working your way closer to the master cylinder. The point of doing this is to replace old fluid and if done right you get all the air out of the brake system. You still have air in the system have you tried to put the lid back on your brake fluid reservoir and pump your brakes to the floor they should get tight unless you have a lot of air in the system. you mave have to do each wheel again just to get the air out.
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Clutch

there is a bulletin for it. Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B
Date: November 01, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject:
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System
Models:
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.
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